108 guide business travellers' seafood casserole to lemon pepper fillet, in an attractive homely setting. 58 Wierda Rd, Wierda Valley, Sandton, tel: + 27 ( 0) 11- 8840465 Q THE GRILLHOUSE Popular for its melt- in- the- mouth fillet steaks and succulent sauces. Opposite, and under the same ownership is Katzy's late night piano bar and cigar lounge. The Firs, Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel: 011- 8803945 Q CARNIVORE With rustic décor, zebra skin chairs and a large central fire pit, this is famous for the all- you- can- eat buffet when slabs of game meat are carved off Maasai spears onto your cast iron plates. 69 Drift Boulevard, Muldersdrift, 30 km from Johan-nesburg on the N14, tel: + 27 ( 0) 11- 9573132 Q FOURNO'S BAKERY The bakers work through the night to provide a huge range of pastries, cakes, croissants, quiches and pies. The sunny outside tables are popular for power breakfasts and weekend brunches. Dunkeld West Centre, Jan Smuts Avenue, Dunkeld West, tel: + 27 ( 0) 11- 3252110, www. fournos. co. za TIME off Johannesburg has a growing crop of tourist attractions including some of South Africa's finest cutting- edge museums. Indeed, if you want to learn about South Africa's history from Stone Age man to the 21st century, then Johannesburg is the place to be. Soweto has now developed its own museums and sights reflecting on the turbulent Apartheid years, while Johannesburg's history of gold is celebrated at Gold Reef City. The new Maropeng and revamped Sterkfontein Caves concentrate on the emergence of mankind in the region. Additionally, the Lesedi Cultural Village and a number of wildlife reserves are within striking distance of the city, and the Johannesburg Zoo remains a popular attraction. The city centre itself has witnessed much rejuvenation in recent years and now the museums and theatre complex at Newtown are safe and hassle- free to visit, though the rest of downtown Jo'burg is still best visited on an organised tour. if you do one thing Q THE APARTHEID MUSEUM One of Africa's most critically acclaimed museums, the Apartheid Museum provides an excellent overview of what South Africa, past and present, is all about. Opened, naturally, by Nelson Mandela in 2002, this extraordinarily powerful museum is divided into ' spaces', that follow the birth of apartheid to democracy. Exhibits cover the Afrikaner government of 1948 which implemented apartheid to the 1976 Soweto student uprisings; reforms during the 1980- 90s; Mandela's release from prison; the 1994 election and the new constitution. The exhibits use multimedia such as television footage and recorded interviews and provide a startlingly clear picture of the harshness and tragedy of the apartheid years. Allow at least three to four hours for a visit. Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Road ( next to Gold reef City), Ormonde, tel: + 27 ( 0) 11- 3904700, www. apartheidmuseum. org TIME TO shop For the international visitor the choice of shopping is vast, not just for crafts and curios, but for global brands and designer labels, and tourists have the added benefit of claiming the 14% VAT back off any goods purchased in South Africa and exported out of the country. The best shopping can be had at the shopping mega- malls – there are at least 20 dotted around Johannesburg. These feature not only shops, but restaurants, cinemas, banks and post offices – indeed anything from nail technicians to tattoo artists. If you are serious about shopping, allow at least half a day at Sandton City – chain stores to international designer boutiques; Hyde Park – where Johannesburg's ladies who lunch, lunch; or The Mall of Rosebank – best for the African Craft Market and al fresco dining in the tree- lined avenues. best buys Wooden carvings, drums, masks, bead and wire sculptures, African art and antiques, leather goods, diamonds, gold and coffee table books on Africa. Cake from the Fourno's Bakery msafiri The Saxon Hotel Moyo The Butcher Shop & Grill