msafiri Go West To see the best Uganda has to offer, try a trip down the species- rich Albertine Rift Valley ( also known as the Western Rift Valley). This journey will thrill even the most jaded visitor, offering an insight into Uganda's incredible diversity – from high mountains to rainforest; from wide open savannah to secret hidden valleys. The Western Rift Valley runs from the northern tip of Lake Albert down through western Uganda, and south into Tanzania. A whopping ten national parks and wildlife reserves fall into this area, including Murchison Falls, Semliki Valley, Kibale Forest, Rwenzori Mountains, Queen Elizabeth and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. The Albertine Rift has been listed as one of the most important sites for conservation in Africa, due to the richness of the flora and fauna, and the high density of endemic species found only here ( the bird species alone number nearly a thousand). In Uganda, this valley demarcates where East and Central Africa collide, providing an impressive fusion of species found in both environments. In Uganda's Western Rift Valley, you could be walking in the morning among giraffe, in wide grassy savannah, and tracking chimpanzees under thick forest cover in the afternoon. Or you may prefer to track gorillas at dawn and try to spot the unusual sight of lions in the trees at sundown. A trip down the Western Rift Valley offers a thrilling slice of Africa. On location When the news got out that a film about Idi Amin was going to be shot on location in Uganda, many hackles went up and there was a collective, audible, deep intake of breath among the populace. Did the world need to be reminded? But the film, The Last King of Scotland, was a hit. The plot was gripping, the acting outstanding, and the lingering, almost sensual, scenes of Uganda's green hills resonated with audiences. Forest Whittaker won the best actor Oscar for his portrayal of one of the world's most infamous dictators, and he was feted by Ugandan people as one of their own. Both Kevin McDonald, the film's director, and Charles Steele, one of the producers, are adamant that the success of the film lies in its authenticity. " The financiers wanted the film shot in South Africa. From a logistical and financial standpoint it would have made sense. But that wasn't the film we wanted to shoot" . " We needed the film to be believable," adds Steele " and we needed the grit that we got from shooting on location". The resulting images juxtapose hip- retro 60' s- style urban scenes and warm, light- drenched outdoor scenes: a true picture of the country. Ugandans, on the whole, have taken great pride in this film. On one hand it confirmed that Amin was indeed a monster, while on the other it helped to explain how the world, including Uganda, was taken in by Amin's charm – and how easy it can be to descend into chaos. 56 UGANDA Trekking in Rwenzori Mountains National Park. Above: the stunning Murchison Falls. Below: Ugandan giraffe. White water rafting on the Nile can be described in two words: life- affirming. This is some of the biggest water for rafting in the world. Casinos are cropping up everywhere in Kampala. New ones on the scene include the hip Pyramids on Kitante Road and the glamorous Mayfair Casino downtown. did YOU know? bruce davidson/ NATUREPL

57 From the top: Rafting on the Nile; Kampala street scene; Lake Edward, Queen Elizabeth National Park. Main Picture: Village girl, Lake Albert. anup shah/ NATUREPLariadne van zandbergen/ PHOTOLIBRARY. com msafiri william gray/ photolibrary. com