msafiri 62 UGANDA Tree frog ( Leptopelis sp) in cryptic daytime resting pose on a leaf in the rainforest. tourism, new lodges have opened to cater for the increase in visitors. On the Buhoma side of Bwindi, Silverback Lodge, recently opened by Geo- lodges, has sweeping views of the forest canopy and guest rooms are an easy downhill walk to the trailhead. Kimbla Mantana have refurbished their traditional camp – one of the first in Buhoma - on the edge of the park. Clouds, built and run by The Uganda Safari Company/ Wildplaces Africa, has just opened its doors on the Nkuringo side of the park. At night, through the big picture windows of the main lodge, guests can see active volcanoes in the Congo glowing red. Talk to me! Just over ten years ago, the fax machine was Uganda's best link to the rest of the world. Now telecommunications in the country are world- class. High- speed broadband and country- wide cellular coverage mean staying in touch is easy and information transfer is available at the touch of a button. Ugandan telecommunication companies like MTN, Celtel, UTL and Warid have good roaming facilities, and cooperation between the East African countries has greatly eased the multiple sim- card conundrum. Most city hotels have good business centres and wi- fi connections in public areas. Staying connected is no longer a challenge in Uganda. What to buy? What to bring back for family and friends from Uganda? For foodies, packets of coffee or tea are a good idea: the tea has a fresh, lively flavour and the coffee is wonderful. A packet of whole vanilla beans is another winner, it grows very well in Uganda and is a precious commodity elsewhere. The craft market behind the National Theatre in Kampala is a good source of wooden salad bowls, baskets, carvings, batiks and traditional instruments. For more upmarket gifts and jewellery, try hotel gift shops or boutiques such as AK or Banana Boat, which have a wide range of colourful, creative, locally- produced gifts. Keep it in the family Of all the primate family, Chimpanzees are our closest relatives, sharing over 99% of our DNA and many of our characteristics. Chimpanzees use tools and have been known to use medicinal plants. They sleep in freshly- made beds every night. They have a complex social structure with defined family roles. Females are very attentive, nurturing their babies and keeping them by their side for the first few years. Chimps are not exclusively vegetarian and the males can be accomplished hunters, moving in organised premaphotos/ naturepl Wild hippo on the Nile