msafiri 64 UGANDA packs. Interestingly, neighbouring communities of chimpanzees have been known to go to war against each other. Sounds familiar? Mount Elgon Love to hike, but can't face the idea of being cold and wet for ten days up in the Rwenzoris? Consider Mount Elgon. A full circuit can be completed in three to four days, and at 4,321 metres, the peak is challenging but not technically difficult. The terrain is beautiful, the nights are fresh, and the views are breathtaking. Kampala for all senses The distant sound of the muezzin at dawn; egrets in flight over treetops at dusk; the massive, soaring, beams at Namirembe Cathedral; candlelit markets; the smell of chicken mchomo on the coals; the huge, ancient mango trees on the Kampala golf course; the ever- changing city skyline from the airstrip, featuring the golden Serena and Imperial Royale hotels… . Kampala's best bars Al's Bar for music that makes you feel young again; the Hotel Diplomate for endless views; the Emin Pasha Hotel for ambience and single malt whiskeys; The Serena Hotel for people- watching; Bubbles O'Leary for craic, the Sheraton for posterity; Steak- Out for a party scene; and Katch the Sun for Kampala vibe. Lions in trees The rare spectacle of tree- climbing lions is not uncommon in two of Uganda's parks. In Ishasha, the southern sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park, the sprawling boughs of the fig tree are ideal for lion lounging, while the lions in Kidepo favour the lower, broad branches of the Kigelia Africana or sausage tree. Black gold Long dependent on the oil brought in through Kenya in an endless stream of fuel trucks, Uganda will soon be on the way to energy self- sufficiency. Oil exploration in the rich Lake Albert region has yielded very positive results. Is this a good thing? With proper environmental measures in place, this could be incredibly good news for Uganda. Bring on Brazil 2014 Is it a coincidence that a small team of young, talented Ugandan football players won the Gothia World Youth Cup five years in a row and Denmark's Tivoli Cup over seven consecutive years? This phenomenal performance would not have been possible without the Kampala Kids League, run by volunteers for the last ten years. Ndere Troupe in words Bridging cultural and tribal gaps, renowned performers of the Acholi Pot Dance - musical, amusing, colourful, traditional story- tellers. Feathers, grass, goat skins. Powerful, acrobatic, rhythmic, artful, galvanizing, hip- shaking, gravity- defying, heart- racing. Flute, kalimba, amadinda, drums- drums-drums, leaping, twisting, gyrating, sweating, fever- pitch, awe- inspiring, professional entertainers. The world's longest river Many are not aware that Uganda is where the Nile starts its long, meandering journey to the Mediterranean. Take a boat trip in Jinja and there is a point, it is said, where on one side of the boat the water is still and placid, while on the other, the beginnings of the river's mighty power and muscle is felt. diamonds in the sky It happens rarely, but when it does, those who have seen the sparkling peaks of the glacier- capped Rwenzori mountains from the golden savannah grassland of Queen Elizabeth National Park have likened the occurrence to a religious experience. At 5,109 metres, the peak is shrouded in cloud for most of the year, but the rare spectacle of the sun glinting on the glacier is breathtaking. November is the season for… Nsenene ( En- seh- nay- nay), the bright green grasshopper that comes with the November rains. Attracted by bright lights at night, the insect is caught and sauteed with chopped onions, garlic and salt. Not unlike whitebait or small shrimp, they are crunchy, savoury and delicious as a snack with an icy cold beer. On the Nile The river is calm, you drift past the brown backs of hippos, the papyrus- fringed banks. Heading upriver you notice the swirls, the current, the eddies, the froth clinging to the rocks. You hear a roar, close by. The boat presses against the current, there's a dampness on your face; the invisible spray. And then you see it, you feel it - the power of Murchison Falls, the Nile thundering through a narrow gorge. Caldera, Mount Elgon ( top); the forested Semliki Valley ( bottom) Prince Charles, visiting Uganda last year for the Commonwealth Conference, said that he had never, ever, received such a warm welcome as he did in Uganda. The golf club at Jinja, opened in the 1920s, is reportedly the only golf course to allow a free drop if your ball should land in a hippo footprint. did YOU know? PAMELA KERTLAND WRIGHT FRANCES LYGO