msafiri 87 Chameleons Madagascar is the world centre for this spectacular family of lizards. Around 50% of all chameleon species, including the world's largest and smallest, are found only here. A chameleon's ability to change colour is one of its most celebrated attributes and it's a common misconception that this is just for camouflage. Certainly, at times, they are extraordinarily adept at matching their background, but in the chameleon's world, colour is also a language. The male panther chameleon, for instance, will instantly erupt into a kaleidoscopic display of colour when confronting a rival. The females of some species go black with coloured polka dots once they have successfully mated. This tells other males she is ' off the market'. It's not just colour that makes chameleons special. They have independently swivelling eyes so they can look in all directions without moving their head, and an extraordinarily long tongue which can zap a fly at distances up to the length of their body. Baobabs There are few more quintessentially African images than a baobab silhouetted against the setting sun. Yet only one species of baobab is found on mainland Africa ( and one in Australia). The remaining six of the world's eight species are restricted to Madagascar. Some baobabs in Madagascar are pollinated by bats. According to local legend, the bat and baobab have always been close friends. Back in the beginning of time, the baobab's constant boasting angered God who, as a punishment, pulled it up and planted it head- down in the soil, with its roots waving forlornly in the air. So now its best friend, the bat, hangs upside down too, mooning at God. Weird, Wacky & Wonderful Madagascar has more than its fair share of the world's weirdest creatures. Here are some of the most outrageous. Giraffe- necked weevil In a land where the bizarre is commonplace, the giraffe- necked weevil courts disbelief: a baked bean- sized beetle that looks like an entomological interpretation of an angle- poised lamp. They are easy to find in Ranomafana and Mantadia National Parks. Aye- aye There are no woodpeckers or squirrels on Madagascar. Their equivalent niche is instead occupied by a lemur, the aye- aye, the most peculiar primate in the world. The aye- aye appears to be cobbled together from bits of other animals: teeth of a rodent, ears of a bat, tail of a squirrel. The result is an other- worldly incarnation of a witch's cat with gargoyle features and spider hands. And it is devilishly difficult to find. Before I started taking tourists around Madagascar, I was aware that Madagascar's natural history is special and worth investigating. But the more I took people into the parks, the more enthusiastic I became… I think the reaction of the tourists when they see the wildlife and flora increased my understanding of just how unique and special our country's natural history is. I'm so proud of it, and always want to share my enthusiasm with other people, and I try to do my best to contribute towards the conservation of our natural assets, even though our contribution may be small. Nivo Ravelojaona owner of Za Tour, Antananarivo

Madagascar is unequalled for its unique wildlife. We are so proud to show tourists the things our country is best known for. Lalaina Ramaroson tour leader WILDLIFE 88 It is the way aye- ayes feed that sets them apart. Like woodpeckers, they hunt for insect grubs in rotting trees, finding their meal by tapping on the wood and listening for hollow sounds or movement beneath. Once a grub is located, they chisel in with their squirrel teeth and winkle out the juicy morsel with their super-flexible middle finger ( unlike other digits, it articulates on a ball- and- socket joint and can rotate through 360 º ). Not that insect finger- food is their only diet; this technique is also used to break into coconuts and feed on nectar from flowers. Helmet vanga This is a thrush- sized bird, predominantly jet-black with a rich chestnut- brown back and tail: nothing extraordinary there. But its beak, that beak, is almost impractically massive and an electric blue so intense that it looks as though a light bulb is glowing inside. Helmet vangas are confined to lowland rainforest in the northeast and most birders head for the Masoala Peninsula or Marojejy National Park to collect their tick. The latter is a wonderfully rugged mountainous area, with stunning rainforest and breathtaking views, though to get them you'll need to be very fit. Leaf- tailed gecko At every turn the wildlife in Madagascar elicits gasps of wonder, but for the sheer jaw- dropping WOW factor it's impossible to beat the leaf- tailed geckos. Evolution has produced a collection of alien- like species with near perfect camouflage. Some mimic lichen and moss, some look like tree bark, and others are perfect imitations of dead leaves. These lizards occur in most rainforest areas and it's possible ( but difficult) to find them in many reserves. However, on Nosy Mangabe, in the absence of bird predators, they're very common and easy to find. Pygmy stump- tailed chameleon The contrast couldn't be greater: Parson's chameleon, arguably the largest species, can reach 70cm in length, while the pygmy stump- tailed chameleon is barely the size of a finger nail. This midget spends most of its time on the forest floor, and is beautifully camouflaged when among leaves. Yet despite being so tiny, they have the hallmark chameleon characteristics: grasping feet, swivelling eyes, and projectile tongue. Only the tail is significantly different since it's not prehensile, so cannot act as an additional hand or foot. BIRDS At first glance visiting twitchers may be surprised by Madagascar's relatively short bird species list, given the island's size and habitat variation. But dig beneath the surface and you'll find that its birds are as full of surprises as all else Malagasy. Each of the three main ecotypes has its own endemic community of birds. Not surprisingly it's the forests that provide the best birding, but some species have adapted to human habitation. Look out for the vivid red fody flitting around in hotel gardens, and pretty little Madagascar wagtails bobbing around outside the airport. Serious birders will be focused on the five families that are unique to Madagascar, many of which are flashy enough to catch the eye of non- twitchers. But sometimes it's the behaviour, not the appearance, that's startling. Take the rather drab- looking black vasa parrot. Not just drab, but in the mating season the females are bald. In the parrot world, bald is sexy, and while most parrots are monogamous, vasas are highly promiscuous. Copulation lasts for several hours, usually with an admiring crowd of onlookers, and the resulting offspring are fed by up to eight males since no one is sure whose chicks are whose. The female stays by the nest, singing her heart out. The best singers attract the most chaps, so singing mums have plump chicks. Not a bad arrangement. msafiri FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: leaf- tailed gecko, pygmy stump- tailed chameleon, helmet vanga NICK GARBUTT pete oxford/ naturepl red fody