Madagascar is unequalled for its unique wildlife. We are so proud to show tourists the things our country is best known for. Lalaina Ramaroson tour leader WILDLIFE 88 It is the way aye- ayes feed that sets them apart. Like woodpeckers, they hunt for insect grubs in rotting trees, finding their meal by tapping on the wood and listening for hollow sounds or movement beneath. Once a grub is located, they chisel in with their squirrel teeth and winkle out the juicy morsel with their super-flexible middle finger ( unlike other digits, it articulates on a ball- and- socket joint and can rotate through 360 º ). Not that insect finger- food is their only diet; this technique is also used to break into coconuts and feed on nectar from flowers. Helmet vanga This is a thrush- sized bird, predominantly jet-black with a rich chestnut- brown back and tail: nothing extraordinary there. But its beak, that beak, is almost impractically massive and an electric blue so intense that it looks as though a light bulb is glowing inside. Helmet vangas are confined to lowland rainforest in the northeast and most birders head for the Masoala Peninsula or Marojejy National Park to collect their tick. The latter is a wonderfully rugged mountainous area, with stunning rainforest and breathtaking views, though to get them you'll need to be very fit. Leaf- tailed gecko At every turn the wildlife in Madagascar elicits gasps of wonder, but for the sheer jaw- dropping WOW factor it's impossible to beat the leaf- tailed geckos. Evolution has produced a collection of alien- like species with near perfect camouflage. Some mimic lichen and moss, some look like tree bark, and others are perfect imitations of dead leaves. These lizards occur in most rainforest areas and it's possible ( but difficult) to find them in many reserves. However, on Nosy Mangabe, in the absence of bird predators, they're very common and easy to find. Pygmy stump- tailed chameleon The contrast couldn't be greater: Parson's chameleon, arguably the largest species, can reach 70cm in length, while the pygmy stump- tailed chameleon is barely the size of a finger nail. This midget spends most of its time on the forest floor, and is beautifully camouflaged when among leaves. Yet despite being so tiny, they have the hallmark chameleon characteristics: grasping feet, swivelling eyes, and projectile tongue. Only the tail is significantly different since it's not prehensile, so cannot act as an additional hand or foot. BIRDS At first glance visiting twitchers may be surprised by Madagascar's relatively short bird species list, given the island's size and habitat variation. But dig beneath the surface and you'll find that its birds are as full of surprises as all else Malagasy. Each of the three main ecotypes has its own endemic community of birds. Not surprisingly it's the forests that provide the best birding, but some species have adapted to human habitation. Look out for the vivid red fody flitting around in hotel gardens, and pretty little Madagascar wagtails bobbing around outside the airport. Serious birders will be focused on the five families that are unique to Madagascar, many of which are flashy enough to catch the eye of non- twitchers. But sometimes it's the behaviour, not the appearance, that's startling. Take the rather drab- looking black vasa parrot. Not just drab, but in the mating season the females are bald. In the parrot world, bald is sexy, and while most parrots are monogamous, vasas are highly promiscuous. Copulation lasts for several hours, usually with an admiring crowd of onlookers, and the resulting offspring are fed by up to eight males since no one is sure whose chicks are whose. The female stays by the nest, singing her heart out. The best singers attract the most chaps, so singing mums have plump chicks. Not a bad arrangement. msafiri FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: leaf- tailed gecko, pygmy stump- tailed chameleon, helmet vanga NICK GARBUTT pete oxford/ naturepl red fody

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