The Brown Bear is a rare andendangered species in Spain today.Just 130 animals remain, splitbetween two isolated populations at eitherend of the Cordillera Cantábrica. Here theydwell in the wildest regions, high in thesteepest and most wooded parts of thisspectacular - but little-visited -mountain range. The majority of the Bears,about 100, are to be found in the westernpopulation, 20 of them in the deep valleysand rugged terrain of Somiedo NaturalPark. Established as recently as 1988 (anddeclared a Biosphere Reserve byUNESCO in 2000), this 29,164-hectarepark protects some of the highest andmost scenic peaks and valleys of theregion; a most pleasant mix of dramaticand craggy limestone peaks and cliffs,upland lakes, fast-flowing streams andrivers, magnificent oak and Beech forests,ancient stone-walled upland pastures andhigh alpine meadows, regarded as thebest-preserved montane environment inthe Iberian peninsula. In particular, this richand varied tapestry of habitats not onlysuits the omnivorous Bear, but alsosupports a very large population ofChamois, Roe Deer and Red Deer, theprey of at least four packs of Wolves thatroam elusively through the rugged regionsof the park. We would, of course, beextremely lucky to see a Bear or a Wolf,but we will look hard for them nonethelessas we pursue our main focus - theregion's birdlife, flora, butterflies and othermammals - during our daily walks inthese mountains. It is the human presence, however, thatmakes this region so very special. As ifthe wonderful Asturian architecture of thestone and clay-tiled villages of Somiedo'svalleys - each dwelling with its separate,classically Asturian, stilted storehouse -were not enough, here the residentfarmers continue to practise an age-oldpastoralist lifestyle, maintaining theirtraditional and unique brañas. These areseasonal 'villages' of ancient stone andthatch huts, set in the high pastures, fromwhich the cow-herders manage their herdsof distinctive red Asturian cows eachspring, summer and autumn. The region is also the land of the vaqueiros, acommunity of pastoralists from the coastwho, for centuries, have seasonally driven (more often in a truck these daysthan on foot, as in the past!) their cattlebetween winter pastures on the coast and the high pastures in Somiedo'smountains where they spend eachsummer living in traditional seasonalvaqueirovillages and hold colourful bi-annual livestock fairs. We have chosen to visit in early July sincethis is the season during which the Bearsventure out into the pastures to 'graze' onthe spring grass before they retreat intothe forests to feed on fruit, nuts and otherforest produce. It is also, of course, thebest time of year for settled weather, birdsand for flowers. Amongst the birds, animportant though declining population ofCapercaillie is protected here. Residentbirds of prey include Golden Eagle,Goshawk, Peregrine and Griffon Vultureand these are joined in summer by goodnumbers of Black Kites, Short-toedEagles, Honey Buzzards and EgyptianVultures. Crag Martins, Rock Thrushes,Rock and Ortolan Buntings, and both Red-billed and Alpine Choughs frequent thehigh meadows. Red-backed Shrikes,Subalpine and Melodious Warblers, CirlBuntings and Rock Sparrows may befound at lower levels, whilst BlackWoodpeckers call from the beech forestsand Crested Tits and Crossbills may beheard amongst the coniferous woodlands.Some 1,125 vascular plant species occurin Somiedo, and these include suchregional endemics as Centaurea janerisubsp. babiana,Armeria bigerrensissubsp. legionensis,Saxifraga babianaand,most notably, the very rare SomiedoCentaury (Centaurium somedanum).However, it is likely to be the sheerabundance of flowers along the waysideand in the hay meadows and alpinepastures, and the butterfly and insect-life itsupports, that affords us greatest pleasureat this season.To best enjoy the natural history of thesemountains, we will be based for the weekin one of the larger villages of Somiedoand will spend each day on foot, enjoyinga programme of gentle-paced day walkswhich we traditionally break with adelicious 'al fresco' picnic. In order tostand a chance of seeing a Bear, however,or even a Wolf, we must also put in long(but optional) hours of patient scanningfrom one spot, probably during the earlymornings and late evenings. But, whateverwe see on this holiday, it is the simplemagic of this rich, scenic and timelessregion, lying in a forgotten corner of ruralSpain, that is likely to leave us with ourmost lasting and delightful memories.GriffonVultureElderflower Orchid135Outline itineraryDay 1Fly Asturias and transferto Somiedo NaturalPark. Day 2/7Day walks in theCantabrian Mountains ofthe Somiedo region.Day 8Return Asturias; flyStansted.Accommodation A single-centre holiday using aclean and comfortable village hotel,all rooms with private facilities. Food All included in the price.GradingGrade B. A programme of daywalks, at altitudes between 1,000and 2,000 metres.Focus Birds, plants, mammals, butterfliesand walking - with an optionalemphasis on Bear-spotting! LeadersByron Palacios (ornithologist) andGloria Lana (botanist).Single room supplement£140.Web quick search: ESP10FRANCE PORTUGAL SEVILLE BILBAOASTURIASCANTABRIAN MOUNTAINSSOMIEDOZAMORA MADRID ATLANTIC OCEAN MEDITERRANEAN SEA SPAINBook direct on 01962 733051or see page 280 for Booking InformationSpain's CantabrianMountains - Realm of the BearAn 8-day holiday to the little-known western end of Spain's Cordillera Cantábrica, home to Bears, Wolves and a rich flora and birdlife. We will enjoy this wildlife on mountain walks through the spectacular Somiedo Natural Park.Sunday 1st July - Sunday 8th July Cost: £1,095Cordillera Cantábrica

Northern Spain has a verygreat deal to offer thenaturalist. The dramaticlimestone peaks of the Picos deEuropa in the heart of the CantabrianMountains are justly famous for theirscenery and birds. Less well known, butonly a relatively short distance to thesouth, are the wide open plains of theupper Duero Valley, which offer a strikingscenic contrast to the mountains and somevery different but equally exciting birds.Add to this a sea crossing that providessome of the best seabird and whale-watching possibilities that Europe has tooffer and you have the makings of a verymemorable trip indeed.Our holiday starts with the ferry crossingfrom Portsmouth to Bilbao, a journey whichat this time of year regularly producessightings of an exciting range of whale anddolphin species. The ship is large andstable and provides a good vantage-pointfor scanning the sea ahead for that tell-talefin or that column of spray, as one of theseimpressive creatures surfaces momentarilyand 'blows'. The ship crosses thecontinental shelf during the night and themorning will find us in the southern Bay ofBiscay, a particularly rich feeding groundfor whales. Here we have a chance ofencountering such exciting species as Fin,Sei, Minke, Killer and Pilot Whales andBottlenose, Common, Striped and Risso'sDolphins. Seabirds are very likely to be inevidence too, and at this time of year wehave a good chance of seeing Balearic,Sooty, Cory's and Great Shearwaters, up tofour species of skua, Sabine's Gull, GreyPhalarope and petrels that may eveninclude Wilson's.Once in Bilbao, we will make the shortjourney inland to Espinama in the heart ofthe Picos de Europa mountains. From ourpleasant hotel here we are well positionedto explore the best that this remarkablyunspoilt region has to offer. Amongst thehigh limestone crags and screes, reachedby a short but spectacular journey on theFuente Dé cable car, we will search for arange of high mountain specialists. AlpineChoughs, Water Pipits, Alpine Accentors,Crag Martins and the attractive Chamois areall common here and, with luck, we will findSnowfinch, Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting andeven Wallcreeper. Raptors are aconspicuous feature of the Picos and,amongst the Griffon Vultures which are sooften to be seen cruising effortlessly alongthe skyline, we must keep an eye open forEgyptian Vultures, Golden and Short-toedEagles and Peregrine Falcons.Lower down, in the valleys, we will discovera very different landscape. Here there aremixed woodlands, tumbling streams, flower-filled meadows, orchards and quiet,timeless villages. Amongst them we will lookout for Black and Middle SpottedWoodpeckers, Woodlark, Dipper, Short-toedTreecreeper, Firecrest, Bonelli's Warbler,Red-backed Shrike and Cirl Bunting.Overhead we could see Booted Eagle, RedKite, Honey Buzzard or Goshawk, whilst atour feet the meadows dazzle us with theirflowers and a range of butterflies that mayinclude Scarce Swallowtail, Cleopatra andthe strange Black Satyr. After our time in the Picos we will headsouth-westwards towards Zamora. In thecourse of an easy but remarkablemorning's drive which takes us over acouple of passes and through a series ofpicturesque valleys, we will descend fromhigh mountains onto the wide open rollingvastness of the Duero plains. Ourdestination is a lovely hotel in Zamora.Here, in accordance with European Uniondirectives, a large area of the plains arebeing farmed in a manner sympathetic to arange of sensitive and declining grasslandbird species. The result is one of thelargest concentrations of Great Bustards inthe world, together with good populationsof Little Bustard, Stone Curlew, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Montagu's Harrier,Lesser Kestrel and Calandra Lark. Withluck we will see all of these during our visit.Additionally, to add icing to the cake, thearea has a series of saline lagoons which,provided they have a little water in them atthis, the driest time of the year, will be fullof migrant waders and other waterbirds. After this contrasting feast of scenery andbirds in two rather forgotten parts of Spain,we will have to return to Bilbao, where pastgroups have squeezed in a visit to theGuggenheim. Counting the MediterraneanGulls as we leave the harbour, we can lookforward to more whales, dolphins,shearwaters and skuas as we once againcross the continental shelf out in the Bay of Biscay. Whatever we see, it is likely tobe a fitting finale to a satisfying andmemorable holiday.Picos & Plains - TheBest of Northern SpainA 10-day tour in search of whales, dolphins and seabirds in the Bay of Biscay and the special birds ofthe Picos de Europa mountains and the Zamoran plains.Friday 3rd August - Sunday 12th August Cost: £1,295Outline itineraryDay 1/2Ferry journey fromPortsmouth to Bilbao.Day 3Arrive Bilbao; transfer toEspinama, Picos deEuropa.Day 4Picos de Europa.Day 5/7Zamora, Duero Valleyplains.Day 8 Bilbao.Day 9 Depart Bilbao by ferry.Day 10 Arrive Portsmouth.AccommodationTwin-bedded cabins aboard theferry. Comfortable hotels in Spain;all rooms with private facilities.FoodAll included in the price, except formeals aboard the ferry and eveningmeal in Bilbao.GradingEasy day walks. Grade A/B.FocusBirds and mammals (particularlywhales and dolphins).LeadersPeter Dunn and Byron Palacios.Single room supplement(in Spain)£115.Web quick search: ESP05136Call now or visit www.naturetrek.co.uk for your free Trip ItineraryFRANCE PORTUGAL SEVILLE BILBAOPICOS SANTANDERDE EUROPA ESPINAMA ZAMORA MADRID ATLANTIC OCEAN MEDITERRANEAN SEA SPAIN Picos de EuropaStriped DolphinBlack-eared Wheatear