Northern Spain, rugged and green, hasa great deal to offer the naturalist.Here, in the Cantabrian Mountains,which extend for about 180 miles from thePyrenees to Galicia, two isolated populationsof European Brown Bear occur. The majority,about 100, live in the wildest, steepest andmost wooded parts of the little-visitedwestern end of the range. Of these, about 20live in the deep valleys, forests andmountains of Somiedo Natural Park, one ofNaturetrek's favourite European retreats, andvery little known. Established in 1988,Somiedo protects almost 30,000 hectares ofsome of the highest and most scenic peaksand valleys of the region, and is regarded asthe best-preserved montane environment inthe Iberian Peninsula. The CantabrianMountains and their outlying ranges alsohold the vast majority of Spain's 2,500 to3,000 Wolves and are the stronghold of thespecies in Europe. This is a population thathas increased markedly since an estimatedall-time low of just 500 individuals in 1970.The depopulation of Spain's rural regions, asSpaniards have increasingly migrated to thecities, has benefitted both the Wolf and theBear, as has a changing attitude towardsthese two species which were once viciouslypersecuted. Our holiday begins with a ferry crossingfrom Portsmouth to Santander over the Bayof Biscay, a journey which at this time ofyear regularly produces sightings of an exciting range of whale and dolphinspecies. The ferry provides a good vantage-point for scanning the sea ahead for tell-talefins or 'blows'. Our ship crosses thecontinental shelf during the night and themorning will find us in the Bay of Biscay,over a deep underwater topography thatcreates a particularly rich feeding groundfor whales. Here we have a chance ofencountering such exciting species as Fin,Sei, Minke and Long-finned Pilot Whales,plus the deep-diving Cuvier's BeakedWhale and a variety of dolphins includingBottlenose, Common, Striped and Risso's.In September it is also sometimes possibleto see migrating Sperm Whales; at this timeof year we also have a good chance ofseeing Balearic, Sooty and Cory'sShearwaters, up to four species of skua,Sabine's Gull, Grey Phalarope and petrelsthat may even include Wilson's. On reaching northern Spain, we'll drive toour hotel in the village of Pola de Somiedo,situated within Somiedo Natural Park, wherewe'll be based for three nights. DuringSeptember, Brown Bears will be feeding onthe seasonal glut of fruits, nuts and otherfood sources in order to fatten up for theirlong winter hibernation. To stand a chanceof seeing a Bear we must put in long hoursof patient scanning from one spot duringthe early mornings and late evenings. Asuccessful Bear quest will also require ahefty dose of luck, not least with theweather! There are Chamois, plus Roe andRed Deers in the park and we'll also enjoy the other wildlife we see from our vantage-points, and during gentle-paced wildlifewalks, as well as during our leisurely andlavish al fresco lunches set amongst thebeautiful Cantabrian scenery. From Somiedo we will drive south to therolling hills of Zamora, where we'll spendthe next three nights. Now our focusswitches to finding another of thesemountains' iconic mammals, the Wolf. Thisis a region of rolling hills and broad valleyswhich affords excellent opportunities toscan wide areas of open land and whichmay easily be accessed via an extensivenetwork of metalled roads and gravelledforest tracks. Birds of prey are much inevidence and include Red Kite, Hen Harrier,Sparrowhawk, Common Buzzard, Kestrel,Merlin and even the occasional GoldenEagle. Coniferous forests are filled withFirecrests, Coal and Crested Tits, and Jays,while the heaths hold Woodlark, Stonechatand Dartford Warbler. Good numbers ofboth Red and Roe Deers are here too -good news for us, as they form the mainprey for the focus of our visit, the Wolf.Looking for Wolves involves lengthyscanning sessions from strategic vantage-points and requires a great deal ofpersistence, patience and stealth. Havingsaid that, 95% of our Wolf-watching tours inthis area to date have been successful, sowe'll be hoping to maintain this record,before it is time to drive to Santander andenjoy some more cetacean and seabird-watching on the ferry home to Plymouth. Spain's 'Big Three': In Searchof Whales, Wolves & BearsA 10-day holiday in search of whales, dolphins and seabirds in the Bay of Biscay, as well as Bears and Wolves in the Cantabrian Mountains.Tuesday 4th September - Thursday 13th September Cost: £1,295Book direct on 01962 733051or see page 280 for Booking InformationFRANCE PORTUGAL SEVILLE BILBAOSANTANDERZAMORA MADRID MEDITERRANEAN SEA SPAIN CANTABRIAN MOUNTAINSSOMIEDOOutline itineraryDay 1Ferry from Portsmouthto Santander.Day 2Arrive Santander;transfer to Pola deSomiedo.Day 3/4Bear-watching inSomiedo Natural Park.Day 5/7Wolf-watching inZamora.Day 8Transfer to Santander.Day 9 Depart Santander byferry.Day 10Arrive Plymouth; transferPortsmouth.AccommodationTwin-bedded cabins aboard theferry. Comfortable rural hotels inSpain; all rooms have privatefacilities.FoodAll included in the price, except onferry crossings.GradingA/B (easy/moderate).FocusSearching for Brown Bears, Wolves,whales, dolphins, seabirds andother wildlife.LeaderGerald Broddelez.Single room supplement(in Spain)£115.Web quick search: ESP27137Iberian WolvesFin WhaleSomiedo Natural Park

There still remain corners of rural Spain,far from the reality of this fast-developing and increasingly urban-dwelling country, that have been forgottenby time, largely abandoned by all but theolder generation, and which are beingreclaimed by a wildlife no longer sopersecuted by man. The Montaña Palentina- the Palentian Mountains - is one suchplace: a wild, unpopulated region of highand chilly ridges, rounded summits,sweeping valleys and magnificentpanoramic vistas extending southwards tothe great plains of Castile and Leon.Nestling in the shadow of northern Spain'sCordillera Cantábrica, not far from thejagged limestone peaks of the Picos deEuropa, the Palentian Mountains aredominated by the majestic Sierra de PeñaLabra, essentially a high mountain ridgeboasting a handful of 2,000-metre summits.The ancient Palentian villages of the regionare largely deserted, with hardly anoccupied house in each. For this reason, sotoo are the Palentian Mountains . left forreclamation by Wolves, Brown Bears, WildBoar, and numerous Chamois, Red Deerand Roe Deer, not to mention a host ofsmaller mammals such as Iberian andBrown Hare, Beech Marten, Pine Marten,Wildcat and the elusive Genet.We will be based in one such village duringthis week-long Spanish-speakingexploration of this little-known mountainwildlife haven, guests of our guide andfriend Tino and his charming wife Rosa,who have sympathetically restored threeterraced farm cottages in a remote andtumbledown hamlet. Tino speaks almost noEnglish, but his clear Spanish and extrovertand bubbly personality make him theperfect travelling companion. Leading thetour with Tino will be our own ByronPalacios. Byron became known toNaturetrek through his expert leadership ofour birding groups in his native Ecuador.Now settled in England with his British wife,Byron has a great rapport with Tino and thispromises to be, above all, a fun week ofwildlife, food and wine that provides theperfect environment in which to practiseand improve your spoken Spanish (althoughByron will use English with you whenstuck!). Situated not far to the north of Aguilar delCampo, the cottages lie on the doorstep ofa truly wild landscape, comprising highmountain ridges rich in alpine flora, jaggedcrags and cliffs, and vast oak and beechforests which support a high percentage ofthe endangered eastern population of theEuropean Brown Bear. Much maligned,these magnificent creatures are notoriouslydifficult to see, roaming elusively over vasttracts of difficult terrain. Nevertheless, wedo stand a chance of a sighting if we put inthe effort at dawn and dusk, when the Bearsare most active. We will be made to feelvery much at home by Tino, who will sharea rich passion for, and knowledge of, thesemountains . as well as regaling us withtales and photographs of his closeencounters with both Bears and Wolves. Interesting mammalian encounters are notreserved, however, for the remote valleys,for our hosts will proudly show us images ofWild Cat and Beech Marten taken by aremote camera not feet away from our frontdoor (and will no doubt demonstrate thispiece of kit during our stay)! The cottages are very much central to ourdaily outings, with the majority of each dayspent on foot, either walking from our base,or in quiet locations accessed by minibus. Arange of habitats can be found in closeproximity, with a full suite of raptors present,including resident Golden Eagles andPeregrines and both Griffon and EgyptianVultures. Black and Middle SpottedWoodpeckers both breed here, the latterpossibly being easier to see in this locationthan throughout much of the rest of itsrange. Another highlight is the Wallcreeperwhich, although probably proving elusive athigh altitudes during this season, drops tothe dam walls of the region's reservoirs atthe onset of colder weather, and can fromthen on be seen quite easily.On one day we will drive further afield toexplore the steppes and plains of themeseta, home to Great Bustard, StoneCurlew and other grassland birds, and alarge (depending on rainfall) reed-fringedlake which supports good numbers ofducks, geese, waders and such interestingpasserines as Penduline Tit andMoustached Warbler. Flexibility will be the key to this tour and,whatever time we arrive back at ourcottages, we can be sure that a heartymeal, freshly prepared by Rosa, will bewaiting for us on our return each day fromthe wilds of this forgotten corner of Europe.It will be hard to leave!Learn Spanish in Wild Spain! - LaMontaña Palentina An 8-day opportunity for aspiring Spanish speakers to improve their Spanish and enjoy the birds,mammals and other wildlife in La Montaña Palentina, a wild and beautiful corner of northern Spain. Thursday 6th September - Thursday 13th September Cost: £1,195Outline itineraryDay 1Fly to Santander; driveAguilar del Campo.Day 2/7Daily programme ofnatural history walksand excursions from ourbase.Day 8Fly London.Accommodation Three old terraced farm cottages,beautifully restored. Food and wineAll included in the price.GradingGrade B. Day walks only.Focus Birds, mammals, other naturalhistory . and speaking Spanish!LeadersByron Palacios and Tino Garcia.Single room supplement£150.Web quick search: ESP22138Call now or visit www.naturetrek.co.uk for your free Trip ItineraryFRANCEPORTUGALSEVILLEBILBAOSANTANDERCORDILLERACANTÁBRICAAGUILARDEL CAMPOMADRIDATLANTICOCEANMEDITERRANEANSEASPAINCuravacas, Montaña PalentinaBlack Woodpecker