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By the mid-1960s, centuries of huntinghad decimated Sweden's Wolfpopulation. Just three Wolvesremained, and a ban on Wolf-hunting wasimposed. Recovery was slow, but hastenedfrom the mid-80s to today, when about 250Wolves, in 20 packs, are concentratedparticularly in central southern Sweden. Onthis holiday we will be based right in theheart of the Scandinavian Wolf population,close to Lake Siljan in Dalarna, a region oflakes and snow-covered hills and forestsblessed with a rich cultural heritage andtraditional architecture, craft industries andfolklore. We'll be staying in the charmingvillage of Tällberg, at the famous GreenHotel - a favourite of the king and queenof Sweden, as well as other dignitaries suchas Kofi Annan! The star of our visit, though,will be our friend, tour leader and guide,Anders Ståhl. Anders' gentle nature andlove of wildlife belies his earlier career as anofficer in Sweden's special forces, where helearnt the art of living and survival inextreme conditions. For the past 16 years,however, his passion has been for the Wolfpacks of the Dalarna region, where he lives and has become renowned as a wolf-tracker, conservationist and artist -Sweden's answer to Ray Mears! In hisexpert hands we'll be donning snow shoes(or cross-country skis should you wish) andwarm clothes to explore the still, scenic andsnowy landscape that is home to Wolves,and searching for the tracks and signs leftby all mammals and birds in the snow,under Anders' expert tuition.We will focus on the wild areas to the eastand south of Lake Siljan, Sweden's seventhlargest lake. This region is often referred toas the 'heart of Sweden' as old traditions,architecture, folklore and ways of life stillremain in tact. Small farmsteads and quaintvillages, with their old red-coloured woodenhouses, lie scattered around the lake andalong the River Dalälven. Encircling them,hills (up to 550m), taigaforests, marshlandsand hundreds of lakes enrich the idyllicscenery and make this beautiful landscapeone of Sweden's most sought-afterdestinations for tourists during the summer.In winter though, we, and the Wolves, havethe place largely to ourselves!Our mission is to search for fresh Wolftracks and to learn a little of the activitiesand habits of these iconic mammals. Howmany are there in the pack? What have theybeen doing? What are they hunting? Wherethey are going? Can we find territorialmarkings? In Anders' company, we willlearn much about these Wolves and the artof wolf-tracking. He will also introduce youto many techniques and tips for wintersurvival. Other mammals, too, will not beignored. We will look for the tracks, signs,and perhaps even a sighting of the Wolves'prey - Elk (Moose), Roe Deer and Red Fox- and of mammals such as MountainHare, Red Squirrel, Stoat, Weasel, PineMarten, Mink, Otter, Lynx and Wild Boar (thelatter as yet not on the menu of the Wolf asthey have only recently recolonised thearea).As we move quietly about in the snow-cloaked hills and forests where the Wolfpacks hold their territories, we will quicklylearn that there is so much more to seethan just the tracks of the animals. For,although winters here are hard, lots ofwildlife continues to survive deep within theforests. In particular, we'll look for Hazelhen,Capercaillie, Black Grouse and Siberian Jay, plus a wide range of woodpeckers thatincludes Three-toed, Black, Grey-headed, Lesser Spotted and Green Woodpecker.Listening carefully, we will pick up Crestedand Coal Tits, Bullfinches that always lookso large and immaculate in the snow, andCrossbills. The hardy little Dipper may beseen actively searching for food in the ice-cold streams, while overhead we'll look outfor Golden Eagle, Sparrowhawk andGoshawk. Then, at night, we will 'rug up'and venture back into the heart of theforests. The stillness, clarity of the night sky,and the beauty of a snowbound forest atnight is initially overwhelming ... but we willlisten hard, hoping to pick out the calls ofthe denizens of the night: Ural Owl,Tengmalm's Owl, Pygmy Owl and TawnyOwl; with luck, perhaps even a Great GreyOwl or a pack of howling Wolves! On thistour we will try to hear them all.Returning to the Green Hotel in Tällbergafter each day out in the cold is a greatfeeling! Our cheeks will burn as we enterthis warm and charming hotel on the shoresof Lake Siljan, welcomed by staff intraditional dress. The delicious meals here,made from local produce, will surely bewell-earned and well-received! Indeed, all in all this is truly a great opportunity to get a unique insight into the life of wildWolves from the comfort and luxury of afirst-class base!Sweden - Wolf-tracking in Winter A 5-day holiday to a scenic and culturally rich region of central Sweden to track Wolves and othermammals through snow-cloaked taiga forests, from the comfort of one of the region's most acclaimed hotels. Thursday 26th January - Monday 30th January Cost: £1,195Thursday 9th February - Monday 13th February Cost: £1,195Thursday 23rd February - Monday 27th February Cost: £1,195Book direct on 01962 733051or see page 280 for Booking InformationNORWAYBALTICSEAKALMARGOTLANDÖLANDMALMÖGOTHENBURGSTOCKHOLMTÄLLBERGSWEDENOutline itineraryDay 1Fly Stockholm; train toTällberg.Day 2/4Mammal-tracking,birding, and night-timelistening for owls andWolves, based inTällberg.Day 5Train to Stockholm; flyLondon.AccommodationThe acclaimed Green Hotel in thecharming lakeside village ofTällberg, in the Dalarna region. Allrooms have private facilities, andthe restaurant serves deliciousmeals made from local produce.FoodAll included in the price (once inTällberg).GradingB+. We may be comfortable in theGreen Hotel, but outside you willneed to be well-equipped andprepared for some physicalchallenge, as moving around in theSwedish wilderness in winter can behard work from time to time.Temperatures can plunge wellbelow -10°C, sometimes even downto -30°C, although morecomfortable temperatures rangingfrom 0°C to -10°C are more usual. FocusWolf-tracking, animal-tracking,winter exploration and survivaltechniques plus birdwatching.LeaderAnders Ståhl.Single room supplementNone!Web quick search: SWE09139Lake Siljan© goodphotos.se© goodphotos.seWolf tracks, Dalarna taiga forest This is a holiday that offers qualityrather than quantity. A quality of light(during daylight hours!) and somequality birds and photographicopportunities. Indeed, winter birdwatchingin northern Scandinavia is very special. Atime when, although a limited number ofspecies is present, such beautiful birds asWaxwings, Crossbills and Bullfinches tendto look even more exquisite in the magicalwinter light, and when almost everymedium-sized bird adorning a treetop islikely to be something special - a forestgrouse, a Nutcracker, a Goshawk or evena Hawk Owl.We begin, and end, in the snow-ladenlowlands of Svartådalen in central Sweden,less than an hour's drive from Västeråsairport, near Stockholm. Svartådalen (theBlack River Valley) offers a pleasingpatchwork of deciduous and coniferousforests, farmland, and lakes and wetlands,frozen and snow-covered in winter. Weexplore this quiet and generally under-exploited landscape via small, windingroads, looking out for such winter visitorsas Great Grey Shrikes and Rough-leggedBuzzards. Resident Goshawks, and bothGolden and White-tailed Eagles alsofrequent the area, whilst both Hawk Owlsand Pygmy Owls are regularly seenthroughout the winter as they sit in thetreetops waiting for their favourite prey -voles - to show on the ground beneaththem. Hawk Owls, in particular, once theyhave found a reliable source of food, willoften stay in the same area for monthsduring the winter, before moving north totheir breeding grounds in March.On cold, clear days, the air is dry and icyand the light simply stunning as it turns topicture postcards the pretty, bright, red-painted wooden farmhouses and theglistening white, snow-coveredsurroundings. On our excursions we willnot lack for plentiful snacks and hot drinks,preferably enjoyed beside an open-air fire;but the bitter cold burns energy, and aftera full day's birding it is wonderful to retreatinto a warm cottage and to sit before awelcoming log fire for a cup of afternoontea and consideration of the day'ssightings. Indeed, both of the comfortablecountryside hotels we use during this shortbreak offer hearty local food and a goodatmosphere. Each day, during our winter birdingoutings, we will not just scan from theroadsides in our vehicle, but will takewalks into the forest and spend time atbird feeding stations, positioned in avariety of habitats, each attracting adifferent range of species. At one suchfeeding station at a garden feeder in thesouthern part of Svartådalen we shouldsee Hawfinches and magnificentBullfinches amongst a host of otherfinches, tits and thrushes. Further north, ina forest clearing, Nutcrackers and Grey-headed Woodpeckers are the mainattractions, together with a variety of foresttits and other passerines. Many of thesebirds have become very tame over theyears, and Crested, Willow and Coal Titswill sometimes feed from your hand or siton your camera lens whilst curiousNutcrackers gather hazelnuts just metres away.Next we drive north for a couple of hours,to spend the night in the tiny village ofJädra Ås, surrounded by taigaforest and overlooking the nearby river. Ourguesthouse boasts a welcoming open firein its dining room, and offers tasty, home-cooked food and friendly, personal service.From it we will visit the feeding station forSiberian Jays at Ockelbo, which alsoregularly attracts Grey-headedWoodpecker and other species. As weenjoy the curious Siberian Jays we will grillsome locally produced sausages over anopen fire, before heading back to theBlack River Valley via the River Dalälvenwhere Dippers (of the Black-bellied race)are found and where Pygmy Owls maysometimes be seen by the roadside.On our final morning we will walk in theforest in search of Hazelhen, Black Grouseand perhaps, even, Capercaillie. We willalso look out for Goshawks, and bothGolden and White-tailed Eagles, whilstoccasionally Three-toed or BlackWoodpeckers are encountered here.Mammals, too, will not be overlookedduring this holiday, for we have a goodchance of encountering such commonspecies as Elk, Roe Deer, Red Deer, RedFox, both Brown and Mountain Hare, RedSquirrel, Stoat, Weasel and Mink, and aslim chance of one of the more elusiveresidents - a Lynx, Wolf, Beaver, Otter orWild Boar! We will also have fundeciphering their tracks.Sweden in WinterA 4-day short break to experience the peace, tranquillity, and snow-laden beauty of rural Swedenin winter, as we focus on enjoying and photographing its obliging winter bird specialities. Thursday 2nd February - Sunday 5th February Cost: £1,050Thursday 9th February - Sunday 12th February Cost: £1,050Thursday 16th February - Sunday 19th February Cost: £1,050Outline itineraryDay 1Fly Västerås; transferSvartådalen.Day 2Svartådalen, then JädraÅs.Day 3Svartådalen. Day 4Drive Västerås; flyLondon.AccommodationA comfortable tourist hotel andguesthouse, both offering heartylocal cuisine. All rooms inSvartådalen have private facilities.Facilities at Jädra Ås are shared.FoodAll included in the price, except forlunch on Day 1 and dinner on Day 4.GradingA. Gentle day walks only. FocusBirds and photography.LeaderDaniel Green.Single room supplement£120.Web quick search: SWE03140Call now or visit www.naturetrek.co.uk for your free Trip ItineraryNORWAYBALTICSEAKALMARGOTLANDÖLANDMALMÖGOTHENBURGSTOCKHOLMVÄSTERÅSSVARTÅDALENJÄDRA ÅSSWEDENPine GrosbeakSiberian JaySvartådalen |