This imposing country captivated one of the 20th century’s greatest explorers ir Wilfred Thesiger spent a large part of his life roaming some of the most cut off and desolate places in the world so it is no surprise that he was lured by the immense challenge of crossing the Empty Quarter, or Rub al-Khali, a journey which he started in 1946 and which led him over the spectacular sands of Saudi Arabia, the Yemen and Oman. The Empty Quarter’s extremely high temperatures and arid conditions mean that it is mostly uninhabited, although its fringes are home to the proud, resourceful and hardy Bedu, who have survived here for centuries. Thesiger held a deep respect for these nomadic tribes and came to have a profound understanding of their struggle for survival. The desolate beauty of the desert, its sheer scale and its constantly changing shapes and colours are entrancing. But Oman has many more striking features that define it. The wilderness of the Empty Quarter contrasts directly with the terraces of the Jebel Al Akhdar, where bushes and trees bear apricots, peaches, figs, pomegranates, walnuts and almonds – and the extreme north where dates, limes and nuts are cultivated. Then there are the rolling dunes and unspoiled coastline of the Wahiba Sands and the fjord-like serenity of the Musandam Peninsula in the north. The country is also speckled with magnificent forts, citadels and towers that serve as reminders of Oman’s rich heritage. Image by kind permission of the Royal Geographical Society 63 Sir Wilfred Thesiger

Driving conditions DEEP SAND & EXCELLENT TARMAC Campsite facilities NONE – FREE CAMPING Lodges & hotels GOOD TO EXCELLENT Route finding EASY TO VERY CHALLENGING Oman is a great destination for anyone who has never self driven abroad before. It is extremely safe and has an excellent road system. Hotels are easy to find and fuel is readily obtainable and unbelievably cheap. Off road driving in the Empty Quarter and Wahiba Sands is enormous fun (and the deep sand is challenging!) but it is imperative to be accompanied by a local guide since navigation is almost impossible, even with a GPS. Oman is a lovely destination for families; its hotels are family-friendly. Food can be bought in towns but the food shops are, strangely, not immediately obvious. In fact, this is illustrative of much of Oman’s character. On first inspection, it is a very closed society and contrasts hugely with the more open and direct approach you find in the African countries we go to. However, you soon come to realise that the Omani people are bursting with friendliness. They are wonderfully hospitable, interested and interesting people. SELF DRIVE CONDITIONS – OMAN S A F A R I D R I V E O M A N O M A N O M A N 64