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NOW OPEN Onkoshi Camp, Etosha National Park, is the latest addition to Namibia Wildlife Resorts portfolio. Nestled on the rim of the pan on a secluded peninsula, Onkoshi Camp is a low impact, environmentally friendly establishment with a maximum of capacity 30 guests, which guarantees a truly personal and exclusive experience. Onkoshi Camp offers superb vistas over the Etosha pan, with its shimmering mirages during the hot days; dramatic sunset and sunrise textures and colours; sense of isolation and space; clear night skies; and the sights, smells and sounds of untamed and unadulterated Africa. All rooms are built on elevated wooden decks, with thatched roofs, canvas walls and large, wooden- framed retractable doors allowing spectacular panoramic views. Rooms are tastefully equipped with locally crafted fittings and furnishings, using a blend of metal and wood combined with natural fabrics to create a natural and ethnic ambiance. In line with NWR's environmental policy, solar energy is being used to provide most of the power requirements of the camp. Activities on offer include professionally guided morning, afternoon and night game drives to surrounding areas of the park, including access to exclusive areas within the north- eastern sand veldt area of Etosha. For the more adventurous, guided walks and moonlight walks on the Etosha Pan will also be on offer. Onkoshi Camp is now open and reservations can be made through the NWR reservation office onkoshireservations@ nwr. com. na - Tel: + 264- 61- 2857200 - Fax: + 264- 61- 224900

Travel Namibia 1 42 Contents Travel Namibia Edition 4 May 2009 3 Elements of surprise: Editor Mary Askew welcomes you to this issue of Travel Namibia. 8 Portfolio: Making light work: photographer Steve Bloom's stunning shots of Namibian wildlife. MORO 14 Namibia's new national park; a 20 year old mystery; souvenirs from a community project... 18 Giraffes in a cattle truck; herding zebra by helicopter; Cinderella's nest; a guide profi le... 20 An albino black- backed jackal; rhino monitoring, a snap- happy lion. 22 An insider's guide to Windhoek: Secret Namibia book; fi nding a lion in the offi ce... FEATURES 24 Living with the San: Aislinn's Pearson shares pages from the diary she kept while staying on the N* a Jaqna Conservancy. 28 Essential Namibia: Stephen Cunliffe gets bogged down in Caprivi's four wet and wild national parks. 36 Kolmanskop: Photographers Steve and Ann Toon share their tips for taking memorable pictures at the abandoned diamond mining town. 40 PAWS: Your chance to help behind the scenes at one of Namibia's cheetah sanctuaries. 44 Flying visit: Martin Benadie introduces you to Namibia's feathered friends. OLWEENDO 48 Map: Flights of fancy: a colourful guide to Namibia's 50 Travel news: New lodges, 54 Travel tips: Saving water. 58 Fact fi le: Everything you need to know 60 Itineraries: A trip through southern 64 Backlog: Hamilton Wende on Aus. 23 A tranquilised lion's eye. But what happens when he wakes? 36 Kolmanskop's spirit in pictures 52 Focus in on your holiday details best birding spots. camp revamps, special deals and atop fl ight hotel for Windhoek. about Namibia before you leave home. Africa's deserts made possible by a new border crossing.