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Travel Namibia 35 CAPRIVI FACT FILE n GETTING THERE The Golden Highway, upgraded and renamed the Trans- Caprivi Highway ( B8), is a tarred road in excellent condition that runs from Rundu across the Caprivi to Katima Mulilo before continuing on to Ngoma ( on the Botswana border). n WHERE TO STAY Bum Hill Community Campsite ( www. nacobta. com. na) is situated on the Kwando within Bwabwatwa a kilometre off the Trans- Caprivi Highway. It is accessible to 2WD vehicles. Camp Kwando ( www. campkwando. com) on the Kwando River on the outskirts of Mudumu. Accommodation for all budgets. Divava Okavango Lodge and Spa ( www. leadinglodges. com/ divava. htm) A luxury lodge on the Kavango River next to Popa Falls, just outside Mahango. Lianshulu Lodge ( www. safariadventurecompany. com) A highly desirable location in the heart of Mudumu. Mahangu Safari Lodge ( www. mahangu. com. na) Overlooks Kavango River onto the Buffalo Core Area of Bwabwatwa. Mazambala Island Lodge ( www. mazambala. com) On an island in the Kwando River floodplain. N// goabaca Community Campsite ( www. nacobta. com. na) Convenient access to Popa Falls. Nambwa Community Campsite ( www. nacobta. com. na) Good location on a Kwando River backwater in Bwabwatwa National Park. Namushasha Country Lodge ( www. namibialodges. com) On the Kwando River within striking distance of both Mudumu and Bwabwatwa. Ndovhu Safari Lodge ( www. ndhovu. com) On the Kavango River, en route to Mahango. Ngepi Lodge ( www. ngepicamp. com) Camping facilities and tree houses on the upper reaches of the Kavango River. Popa Falls Rest Camp ( www. nwr. com. na/ popa_ falls. php) Government- run rest camp. Susuwe Island Lodge ( www. islandsinafrica. com) Luxurious accommodation option on a Kwando River island within Bwabwatwa. n RECOMMENDED OPERATORS Camp Kwando ( www. campkwando. com) Mudumu and Mamili camping safaris. Hakuna Matata Adventures ( www. capriviriverlodge. net) Camping safaris to all the Caprivi parks, with an emphasis on trips to Mamili. Tutwa Tourism & Travel ( www. tutwa. com) Safari options throughout the Caprivi sub- region. n WHEN TO GO The rains arrive in late October and continue through until early May. Wildlife disperses during the wet summer season, however birding is at its best with numerous migrants and breeding plumages on display. Gameviewing is most productive during the driest winter months of July to October. n HEALTH AND SAFETY Malaria is prevalent throughout the Caprivi Strip. It is advisable to consult your doctor or a travel clinic about health precautions prior to travelling. Kwando River is undoubtedly the park's highlight. James Kashiri, my Lianshulu guide, off- loaded some of his near-encyclopaedic knowledge of the park as our boat meandered downstream. Carmine bee- eaters exploded from their cliff- side nesting holes and wattled cranes lumbered into the air at our approach. A dazzle of zebra accompanied by tsessebe grazed the green grass at the water's edge. Elephant herds simultaneously quenched their thirst and devoured mouthfuls of sharp reeds before moving off into a shady grove of African mangosteen trees. A rare sitatunga bread or toast, but she devours muffins!" she cryptically elaborated. The conversation was entering the realms of absurdity and I was feeling lost. I was about to admit to my confusion, when a timely exclamation stopped me dead in my tracks. " There she is," pointed out the barman. I was dumbfounded. I instantly knew that I had never met Nandi and I certainly had no desire to ever come face to face with her. The infamous Nandi was actually a frightening three- metre crocodile. Hand- reared decades earlier, during an era when hand- raising animals was considered acceptable, she developed an inexplicable love for muffins that has endured to this day. Nadia explained, " She is a completely wild crocodile who feeds on fish and antelope, but she has never lost her love for muffins and her affinity with the camp." She definitely is one of Mudumu's most unusual attractions. Nandi inhabits the mirror- calm waters of the Kwando River. A near endless swathe of Phragmites reed beds line the riverbanks and constantly filter the river producing crystal- clear waters. A boat cruise along the took fright and, with a loud splash, vanished into the dense aquatic vegetation. The Kwando River provided an endless stream of great wildlife sightings and superb birding opportunities in extraordinarily beautiful surroundings; however, one unique experience stood out above the rest. The urgency in James's voice was palpable as he commanded, " Look down." The blank look on my face prompted him hurriedly to clarify, " No, under the water!" My eyes delighted upon a small pod of hippos, clearly visible in the clear water as they slept contently on the river bottom.

Kolmanskop 36 Travel Namibia Kolmanskop, the once opulent heart of Namibia's diamond rush, now stands eerily silent. It is slowly being lost under an encroaching sea of sand, but photographic opportunities abound. Photographers Steve and Ann Toon explain how to capture your own gem of a picture. in the sand Kolmanskop ghost town Ann and steve toon