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TRAVEL NAMIBIA magazine is published biannually by Travel Africa Ltd. This edition, issue 4, was published in May 2009 TRAVEL AFRICA LTD 4 Rycote Lane Farm, Milton Common, Oxford, OX9 2NZ, United Kingdom ¦ Tel: + 44 ( 0) 1844 278883 ¦ Fax: + 44 ( 0) 1844 278893 ¦ Email: namibia@ travelafricamag. com ¦ www. travelnamibiamag. com www. travelafricamag. com ¦ Publisher Craig Rix craig@ travelafricamag. com ¦ Editor Mary Askew mary@ travelafricamag. com ¦ Designer Lisa Duke ¦ Sales Manager Dave Southwood advertising@ travelafricamag. com ¦ Publications Manager Phil Clisby phil@ travelafricamag. com ¦ Customer Services Sherry Rix service@ travelafricamag. com ¦ Managing Director Iain Wallace ¦ Accounts Amanda Gaydon accounts@ travelafricamag. com Cover photograph A hippo on the Kwando River in Caprivi. Credit Paul Souders / Getty Subscriptions Travel Namibia can be mailed directly to your door every May and November. To subscribe, please contact Travel Africa using the above contact details or visit www. travelnamibiamag. com. Charges: ¦ Within UK: £ 8.00 per annum ( 2 issues) ¦ Rest of World: £ 15.00 per annum ( 2 issues) NAMIBIA TOURISM BOARD Travel Namibia is published with the valued support of the Namibia Tourism Board. To receive a copy, please contact the Namibia Tourism Board offi ce nearest you: Namibia: First Floor, Channel Life Towers, 39 Post Street Mall, Private Bag 13244, Windhoek, Namibia ¦ Tel: + 264 61 2906000 ¦ Fax: + 264 61 254848 ¦ info@ namibiatourism. com. na UK: Namibia Tourism UK, c/ o AMG Ltd, Suite 200 Parkway House, Sheen Lane, London SW14 8LS ¦ Tel: + 44 ( 0) 0870 330 9333 ¦ Fax: + 44 ( 0) 20 8878 9124 ¦ info@ namibiatourism. co. uk www. namibiatourism. com. na Travel Namibia 3 I ' d just spent three chilly hours on a night game drive in Namibia's Etosha National Park and seen very little bar a couple of dik- diks and some springbok. We all know that good wildlife sightings are never guaranteed on safari, but it was hard not to feel a little disappointed as I walked back to my chalet at Okaukuejo. My visit was a short one and there was no chance to go out again the following evening. As I put my key in the door, I turned round to take one last look at the camp's fl oodlit waterhole, a few metres away. There, quietly quenching their thirst, were no fewer than seven rhinos. I watched them for an hour, ripples from the water refl ecting on their armour- like hides. It was quite magical and my disappointment soon turned to elation. In this edition we showcase photographer Steve Bloom ( Portfolio, p8). He managed to capture a very similar scene when he visited Etosha. It's one of those photographs that I never tire of looking at. Many of my favourite moments in Namibia have been surprises - from running down a Namib dune and hearing it ' roar' under my feet to being captivated by the luminosity of the women's skin the fi rst time I visited a Himba village. These are all things that guidebooks don't prepare you for. For many, Namibia's biggest surprise is Caprivi. It's an improbably narrow strip of land that juts out of the country's northeast tip like a crooked fi nger, a green fi nger. In a country renowned for its arid landscapes, Caprivi is shockingly green. In this edition Stephen Cunliffe explores the strip's four national parks ( Wet and Wild, p28). The parks are overlooked by many tourists, but are now tipped to become one of the next ' hot' destinations for adventurous travellers. I am, I confess, a closet twitcher. I'm not alone - a recent RSPB survey found that half of us feed birds in our garden. As Martin Benadie writes, Namibia's birds are particularly captivating. He recently set himself a challenge to see how many different species he could spot on a fortnight's holiday. Turn to p 44 to fi nd out how he got on. Finally, don't wait too long before visiting Kolmanskop. As Steven and Ann Toon explain ( Castles in the Sand, p36), the abandoned diamond mining town will, one day soon, yield to the encroaching desert. Happy travels, Editorial Mary Askew, Editor ¦ mary@ travelafricamag. com Element of surprise