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Travel Namibia 1 Contents Travel Namibia Edition 5 November 2009 3 Guide posts: Editor Mary Askew welcomes you to this issue of Travel Namibia. 8 Portfolio: Our favourite Namibian shots from the BBC Wildlife Photographer of the Year Awards. MORO 14 Joanna Lumley visits Namibia; the lake of lilies; rock art; a zebra without its stripes... 18 A politician's dentures crack under the strain in Etosha; biltong know- how; a birding fi rst... 20 Spending time in Swakopmund; the guide who lived in a snake cage for 121 days; extreme biking... 22 Rhino return to Fish River; the Hoba meteorite; an interview with the fastest man on Walvis Bay... FEATURES 24 Etosha Waterholes: The defi nitive guide to where the Big Five quench their thirst. 28 Essential Namibia: The Desert Beast Steven and Ann Toon go in search of desert- adapted rhino, lion and elephant. 36 Guiding write: Extracts from the diary of Christiaan Bakkes, one of Namibia's most respected guides. 42 All of a quiver: Photographers Steve and Ann Toon explore a forest of magical trees. 46 Route master: Iain Wallace fi nds out just how much you can see on a two- week, self- drive tour. OLWEENDO 50 Map: Spectacular sundowners: Top places to toast the setting sun. 52 Travel news: Fly out of Twyfelfontein ; birthday celebrations and stargazing... 54 Accommodation: A new lodge in Epupa and another close to Windhoek and a camp for kids close to Etosha... 58 Fact fi le: Everything you need to know about Namibia before you leave home. 60 Itineraries: A self- drive two- week road trip that doesn't chew up the miles. 64 Backlog: Hamilton Wende on Herero culture. 14 Namibia's water wonderland. For one week only... but when? 28 The desert elephants of northern Namibia 50 Top up your glass: we've found the best spots for a sundowner 42 A quivering trek through mystical trees 24 Head straight for the best waterholes with our map