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TRAVEL NAMIBIA magazine is published biannually by Travel Africa Ltd. This edition, issue 5, was published in Nov 2009 TRAVEL AFRICA LTD 4 Rycote Lane Farm, Milton Common, Oxford, OX9 2NZ, United Kingdom ¦ Tel: + 44 ( 0) 1844 278883 ¦ Fax: + 44 ( 0) 1844 278893 ¦ Email: namibia@ travelafricamag. com ¦ www. travelnamibiamag. com www. travelafricamag. com ¦ Publisher Craig Rix ¦ Editor Mary Askew mary@ travelafricamag. com ¦ Designer Lisa Duke ¦ Sales Manager Dave Southwood advertising@ travelafricamag. com ¦ Publications Manager Phil Clisby phil@ travelafricamag. com ¦ Customer Services Sherry Rix service@ travelafricamag. com ¦ Managing Director Iain Wallace ¦ Accounts Amanda Gaydon accounts@ travelafricamag. com Cover photograph A Namibian lion. Theo Allofs / CORBIS Subscriptions Travel Namibia can be mailed directly to your door every May and November. To subscribe, please contact Travel Africa using the above contact details or visit www. travelnamibiamag. com. Charges: ¦ Within UK: £ 8.00 per annum ( 2 issues) ¦ Rest of World: £ 15.00 per annum ( 2 issues) NAMIBIA TOURISM BOARD Travel Namibia is published with the valued support of the Namibia Tourism Board. To receive a copy, please contact the Namibia Tourism Board offi ce nearest you: Namibia: First Floor, Channel Life Towers, 39 Post Street Mall, Private Bag 13244, Windhoek, Namibia ¦ Tel: + 264 61 2906000 ¦ Fax: + 264 61 254848 ¦ info@ namibiatourism. com. na UK: Namibia Tourism UK, c/ o Hills Balfour Synergy, Level 3, Colechurch House, 1 London Bridge Walk, London, SE1 2SX. ¦ Tel: + 44 ( 0) 207 3670962 ¦ namibia@ hillsbalfoursynergy. com www. namibiatourism. com. na Travel Namibia 3 R ecently I was sitting beside a campfi re at the PAWS volunteer project, in the grounds of Okonjima big cat sanctuary. I'm a sucker for an African campfi re at the best of times, but this one was particularly memorable. Not only did I have a cool bottle of Windhoek lager in my hand, but I had gatecrashed an informal gathering of safari guides. For a woman who can't glean enough wildlife trivia, it was the perfect evening. A good guide should be able to give you tips and information that you will not fi nd in a book - an insider's take on your destination. Clive Johnson, who runs PAWS with his partner Roma, has been a guide in Namibia for years. As supper simmered on the coals, he trotted out a series of facts I had never heard before, but have repeated many times since: " Cheetahs are the only cats that don't retract their claws - they act like the spikes in an athlete's shoe." " Did you know eland can jump two and a half metres from standing?" I was so enthused that, when I got home, I contacted some more of Namibia's best guides and asked them to tell us their secrets. The result? Check out the map of top sundowner spots on p48, and our essential feature on Etosha's waterholes on p24. My hope is that this edition of Travel Namibia Magazine will be like carrying your own personal safari guide in your pocket! Christiaan Bakkes is undoubtedly one of Namibia's most colourful guides. There's an extract from his book on p40 that contains my favourite quote of the magazine: " I come from a family with a proud history of shooting Englishmen." Suffi ce to say, Christiaan has never followed in his ancestors' footsteps. He did, however, get into a fi ght with a crocodile, in which he lost an arm. For many years Christiaan worked in the far northwest of Namibia where the animals have made intriguing adaptations to survive the arid conditions. The desert elephants are perhaps the best known of these animals, with their especially large feet, evolved over generations to help them walk in the deep sand, but Namibia has desert- adapted rhinos and lions too. Photographers Steve and Anne Toon go in search of them on p28. I hope this edition of the magazine gives you inspiration for your holiday to Namibia, and if you meet an inspirational guide along the way, we'd love to hear about him or her. Editorial Mary Askew, Editor ¦ mary@ travelafricamag. com Guide posts