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November 2009 Travel Zambia 21 Livingstone Human yoyo ( bungee jumping) By Wednesday afternoon I was fresh out of adrenalin after a very long morning of throwing myself off cliffs. Yet, somehow, I desperately needed to summon up the courage to launch myself off one fi nal bridge. I won't lie and pretend that I take this sort of thing in my stride. I was absolutely 100% petrifi ed as I stood on the edge of the bridge, gazing over the yawning chasm of the Zambezi and listening to the countdown: " Five, four, three, two, one..." I was gone even before the fi nal cry of " bungee!" One more second's delay and my fear would have frozen me to that bridge permanently. The Vic Falls bungee has been operating commercially from the Zambian side for 14 years, during which time over 800,000 ( in?) sane tourists have thrown themselves off a perfectly good bridge. Why? Jump- master Mulemi Mwandu puts it down to brainwashing. " Bungee jumping cleans the mind," he explains. " Everyday stresses vanish, and you feel like a newborn baby after you have been winched back up onto the bridge and realise that you have survived." Paddle power ( kayaking) As an inexperienced kayaker, I defi nitely felt unable to tackle the Zambezi alone and live to tell the tale. Luckily I had Trevor Sheehan from Zambezi. com to take me down in a tandem kayak known as the ' Topo Duo'. Trevor put me through a crash course in eskimo rolling, which basically involved me ditching my paddle and hugging the canoe tightly while he tried to roll us back upright. " If the canoe is still upside- down and you run out of breath," he advised, as we headed into our fi rst major rapid, " pull your skirt and abandon ship." We survived Stairway to Heaven, but I followed his advice at The Devil's Toilet Bowl and pulled my splash cover in a desperate bid for air. A full day of kayaking on the Zambezi involves plenty of water up the nose, a fair amount of time upside- down and some good swimming practice, but it is also tremendous fun and I loved every minute of it. WHERE EAGLES DARE ( microlighting) The sun had just broken the horizon on a partly cloudy Friday morning as we taxied across the apron. I clipped on my earphones, Bernie gunned the engine and we rumbled down the dirt airstrip. The two- seater microlight was airborne within seconds and we began to circle like a hungry vulture looking for a thermal: we needed to gain altitude to meet the 4000- foot fl ight deck for microlights above Victoria Falls. The fl ight is a revelation, offering a unique and breathtaking perspective of the river, the falls and the dramatic topography of this extraordinary region. Not surprisingly it is dubbed ' the fl ight of the angels', after Livingstone's famous remark - and there is, indeed, something celestial about such a privileged spectacle. After your eagle's eye view of the falls you have a choice of fl ying along the Zambezi gorges or taking a low- level fl ight over Mosi- Oa- Tunya National Park in search of wildlife. Either option reminds you of the riches that the area has to offer. Above left: Bungee jumping doesn't come more spectacular than from the Victoria Falls bridge Above right: Kayakers can expect to put their eskimo rolling skills to good use Below: The best seat in the house comes on a microlight One more second's delay and my fear would have frozen me to that bridge permanently STEPHEN CUNLIFFE BUNDU ADVENTURES BATOKA SKY

22 Travel Zambia November 2009 Intimate, remote, wild and just perfect Owned and operated by the Cumings Family, this is the finest of bushcamps. Canoe the Lower Zambezi's meandering channels, walk in the footsteps of buffalo herds, track wild dogs in a 4x4, catch and release the infamous tigerfish, sip sundowners on a waterborne safari or simply sit and watch the elephants parade through camp. To explore Old Mondoro online visit www. chiawa. com or email info@ chiawa. com Old Mondoro Lower Zambezi National Park STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Victoria Falls, Livingstone, Zambia www. StanleySafaris. com reservations@ stanleysafaris. com Tel: + 27 72 170 8879 Fax: + 1- 206- 350 0259 The Jackalberry Treehouse should be your next African experience... fall asleep star- gazing while listening to hippo grazing below you, elephant rumbling or a hyaena's mournful call. Or maybe one of our new Luxury ensuite safari tents or chalet rooms, while our outstanding guides bring the birds and animals to life on walking safaris, day and night drives. www. fl atdogscamp. comFlatdogs Camp info@ fl atdogscamp. com It's the little things that make a big difference! Bush- Buzz Experts in Travel Tel: + 260 ( 0) 211- 256992/ 827 Email: info@ bush- buzz. com www. bush- buzz. com * Flights * Car Hire * Safari packages * Accommodation * Corporate travel * Customised tours