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GONAREZHOU LOOK OUT FOR THE LITTLE SIX ORIBI ( 66CM) Extremely slender, these antelope have a long neck. The white, crescent- shaped band of fur above the eye is the key characteristic distinguishing it from similar species. Oribi emit a shrill whistle when alarmed. They can run at speeds up to 50 kilometres per hour. 26 Travel Zimbabwe December 2009 KLIPSPRINGER ( 58CM) The bounciest of the bunch, klipspringers can leap up to 7m in a single bound. If one is stationary, look closely and you'll see that it stands on the tips of its hooves. Klippies are sometimes called the ' African chamois' for their agility on steep rock slopes. Lowveld LIVINGSTONE'S SUNI ( 33CM) Very tiny. Look for the big, translucent- pink ears and, if it's a male, the short, straight, heavily ridged horns and the prominent facial scent gland. These preorbital glands are the largest, relative to size, of all African antelope. from the tourism it generates." This has been Clive's mantra during the past 30 years in the steamy lowveld. When he fi rst came to the Mahenya community's land, east of Save River, he was drawn into the human-wildlife confl ict. " The local Shangaans had been removed from Gonarezhou when it became a national park in 1975. Understandably resentful, they also saw animals as a destructive force due to the damage they infl icted on their crops," explained Clive. Fluent in Shangaan, he brokered a deal in 1982 that set up a hunting concession on their 10,000ha communal lands. " Revenue fl owed into the community, and poaching in Gonarezhou National Park seemed to stop overnight," said Clive. His vision also laid the groundwork for the revolutionary Communal Areas Management Programme For Indigenous Resources ( CAMPFIRE) that became a model for community involvement across Zimbabwe. And by the mid- 1990s, Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge was an embryonic example of a community-involved lodge, with Mahenye villagers receiving a share of the lodge's profi ts plus lease fees. " The local community is still proud of Chilo and believes it will benefi t them again when tourists return," explained Thomas Mutombeni, a Shangaan who worked his way up from waiter to become the lodge's manager. Before leaving Gonarezhou for Malilangwe we visited its pièce de résistance, the mighty Chilojo Cliffs. Its bands of yellow and rhubarb- pink sandstone strata run for kilometres before breaking away into teetering, 200m- high stacks above the River Runde. The only other landscape of comparable magnitude I'd seen in Africa was Namibia's awe- inspiring Fish River Canyon. Malilangwe, once a cattle ranch, is now a 50,000ha private estate that provides another shining example of conservation benefi ting local community causes. However, their approach is very different to Clive's. Malilangwe Trust projects are funded by wealthy backers, and revenue raised from its world- famous community- " Our most wonderful resource is our wildlife, but we can't successfully protect it unless the local communities benefi t from the tourism it generates" MARK STRATTON

SHARPE'S GRYSBOK ( 50CM) More stocky than the grey duiker, Sharpe's grysbok also has longer hair over its hindquarters. Its reddish-brown coat is streaked with white. With its short neck and long legs, this antelope has a high- rump posture when browsing. GREY DUIKER ( 50CM) A shy browser, grey duikers can go without drinking water for very long periods. The males, who bear horns up to 11cm long, tend to reside on elevated ground so they can watch over their territory. Females tend to stick to more densely vegetated areas. STEENBOK ( 60CM) Known for the black crescent- shape between their rather large ears, steenbok also have a long black bridge leading to their nose. Their scent gland is found in front of the eye - look for its black circular shape. Although usually solitary, mating pairs tend to occupy the same territory. Pamushana Lodge, which offers conscience- salving tourism for the über- loaded. My eyes were out on stalks when shown my cavernous $ 800- per- night room, with its vibrantly emblazoned bold Shangaan motifs, luxury furnishings, multiple bathrooms and personal infi nity pool. The list of famous clientele at Pamushana includes Michael Douglas and King Juan Carlos of Spain. My evening game drive through miombo woodlands, with ironwood and acacia thickets framed by fl at- top mountains, revealed Malilangwe as something of a Noah's Ark. Committed to restoring the estate's biodiversity over the past 15 years, they've used some of their funds to reintroduce numerous species such as rhino. Other programmes include the captive breeding of roan, and research into wild dogs and spotted hyenas. As Malilangwe's core ethos is ' conservation through development', I joined project offi cer Shepherd Mawire the next morning for a trip to the surrounding communities who benefi t from the estate's work. We visited small- scale irrigation schemes and a market garden programme aimed at empowering local women. Our next stop was a child supplementary feeding station, which is currently feeding 22,000 youngsters daily. Created in 2004 in response to the malnutrition resulting from successive droughts, the programme provides schoolchildren and those under fi ve years of age with nhapi- tap (' sweetness' in Shona), a blend of soy- beans, maize, sugar and salt. " If the children start to understand the benefi ts of conservation now," said Shepherd, " they will carry this with them into the future." ? Mark Stratton travelled in Gonarezhou National Park and Malilangwe with thanks to Clive Stockil, Chilo Gorge and Senuko Safari Lodge ( www. senuko. com) and Singita Pamushana Lodge ( www. singita. com). Opposite page: Peering through the Chilojo Cliffs in Gonarezhou National Park Clockwise from left: Tourism revenues enable the Malilangwe Trust to feed 22,000 children every day; rooms with a view - Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge and Pamushana Lodge; Shepherd Mawire in the Malilangwe Trust's vegetable garden MARK STRATTONSINGITA PAMUSHANA LODGE CHILO GORGE SAFARI LODGE MARK STRATTON