Melbourne identity Torn between town and country? A visit to Victoria's capital offers the best of both worlds, writes Ben Lerwill australia

www. travelmood. comWINTER2008/ 09 11 W ith the sun melting over the Yarra River, my seafood platter grilling to perfection in the restaurant's kitchen and my glass about to be replenished with another crisp Riesling I reflected on an action- packed day. It's little wonder that Melbourne has been ranked the world's most liveable city – twice. Twelve hours ago I'd been high above the city in a hot- air balloon, watching ocean and skyscrapers twinkling in the dawn sunrise. By midday I'd been immersed in indigenous art at the National Gallery of Victoria and by 4pm I'd explored the city's markets and hopped on the tram to St Kilda for some café culture, a sunbathe and a swim. Phew. I needed another glass of Riesling. Victoria takes the classic elements of urban living – shopping, fine dining, the arts, entertainment, sports events and nightlife – and throws its own unique ingredients into the mix. Where else can you go surfing after breakfast and then spend the day watching Grand Slam tennis? Which other city combines designer boutiques with world- class vineyard tastings and lets you go off and spot penguins between gallery visits? Melbourne, as you may have realised, is no ordinary city. On the one hand it is cultured, hip and thoroughly modern, drawing plaudits for everything from its festivals and architecture to its music scene and fine dining ( Gordon Ramsay has rightly called it " Australia's culinary engine room") and on the other it's a nature lover's dream, blessed with a beautifully rugged coastline, copious beaches and world-renowned vineyards. To co- opt the local lingo, it's a ' bloody great place' by anyone's standards. Melbourne's surrounding countryside is epic. From the Mornington Peninsula and Phillip Island to the Grampians and the magnificent Great Ocean Road, Victoria is blessed with some of Australia's most iconic and awe- inspiring attractions. Postcard views are everywhere, and this being the smallest state in Australia, Victoria is eminently manageable ( and rewarding) to explore as part of a Melbourne break. Back in town, Melbourne's innovative spirit continues to thrive. The city has welcomed a raft of fresh and exciting openings in 2008, from spas, hotels and museums to bars, restaurants and upmarket boutiques. Acclaimed eateries Nobu and Jamie Oliver's Fifteen have both enjoyed critically acclaimed first years, as has the sky- scraping 88th floor observation deck at the remarkable Eureka Tower, offering unparalleled views of Melbourne and surrounding regions. Also set to scale the heights is the recently unveiled Southern Star Observation Wheel that opened last month with breathtaking 360- degree views of Melbourne, the Docklands, Port Phillip Bay and beyond. At night the wheel becomes a light show, and a new shopping and entertainment centre will link it with the up- and- coming Docklands waterfront. An already sparkling and diverse hotel portfolio is soon to be boosted by another 6,700 rooms. Melbourne lays claim not only to the leading spa resort in Australia ( the Lyall Hotel), but also one of the world's top 10 hostels ( Base St Kilda). The city is no stranger to accolades – it currently basks under the title Ultimate International Sports City 2008, and offers visitors everything from Grand Prix and Test cricket to the Australian Open and the famed Melbourne Cup horse race. The city also scoops regular awards for its festivals, shopping and arts scene and this year UNESCO has named it a City of Literature, only the second time such an honour has been bestowed. When you factor in the phenomenal wildlife and touring opportunities within two hours' drive of the city, you'll understand why visitors to Melbourne are keen to return. Urban chic and gourmet food and wine coupled with breathtaking scenery and more native wildlife on the doorstep than you can point a camera at? Now that calls for another Riesling. Take advantage of the city's excellent range of galleries and museums, featuring exhibits on everything from contemporary art, to Australia's immigration history Melbourne is home to one of the world's great zoos and the city's incredible aquarium is also a hit with kids From Aussie rules and Grand Prix Formula One to horse- racing and world-class cricket and tennis, the city lives and breathes sport. Bag yourself a ticket Whiz up to the 88th floor of the Eureka Tower, take a turn on the Southern Star Observation Wheel or splash out on a helicopter or hot air balloon flight There's no better place in Australia to indulge in retail therapy. Catwalk chic, funky design and alternative style in Melbourne's quirky ' laneways'– it's all here Tour the acclaimed wineries of the Yarra Valley or the Mornington Peninsula and then complement the tipple with a meal at one of the city's spectacular restaurants Take in the Twelve Apostles and other momentous coastal scenery on the Great Ocean Road, one of the world's greatest coastal drives Join the penguin parade and experience the spectacle of hundreds of penguins returning home for the night on Phillip Island ( 90 minutes from the city) Visit the soaring Grampians National Park. Put your best foot forward on a gentle walk and discover the unique wildlife and stunning views Explore Wilson's Promontory and get up close to the native wildlife in one of Australia's most cherished national parks Nights at the stylish Hotel Lindrumfrom £ 70. Nights at Rydges Melbournefrom £ 54 ( both per person per night). A one- day Hidden Secrets Lanes and Arcades Tourtaking in local designers, street art, architecture and detailed historical narrative costs from £ 55, including lunch with a glass of wine. A one- hour sunrise balloon flightover Melbourne costs from £ 166 (£ 117 child). A ticket to Eureka Skydeck 88, the highest public vantage pointin the Southern Hemisphere, costs £ 10 (£ 5 children). A full- day wine tour in the Yarra Valley costs from £ 50 per person including wine- tastings and lunch. See an Aussie Rules game, from £ 55 including a welcome drink and a goodie bag ( souvenir program, club song sheets and footie food at quarter time). BOOK IT NOW There's moreto MELBOURNE IN THE CITYOUT OF TOWN 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10