www. travelmood. comWINTER 2008/ 09 17 abroad. Today Hluhluwe- iMfolozi is focusing its efforts on the endangered black rhino, and at least a fifth of the world's black and white rhino population is found here. The so- called Elephant Coast incorporates a good mix of land and sea safari experiences within its world- class conservation areas. The uMkhuze Game Reserve connects to the wetland park, allowing game to roam freely from one park to the other, and much of the region's prolific bird life congregates around the numerous pans and lakes where crocodiles, hippos and water birds can be observed from hides or riverboats. Adjoining uMkhuze is the private Phinda Reserve, where seven luxurious safari lodges sit in pristine bush surrounds. Zululand was the former stomping ground of the legendary Zulu king, Shaka, and the tranquil hills and grasslands of Zululand carry many a battle scar, including those fought between Zulu, Boer and Briton. Most of these former battlefield sites lie on plains that stretch from the Drakensberg Mountains, with flagship tours taking place at Isandlwana and Rorke's Drift. From Isandlwana Lodge's lofty location, where 12 stylish balcony rooms overhang the battlefield plains, one is immediately overwhelmed by a sense of place. A comprehensive collection of photos, historical documents, maps and newspaper cuttings adorns the glass- curtained lobby and in the village church, St Vincent's, just below the lodge, you can see the memorial font donated by the Officer's Children's School in Aldershot in 1880. During a guided village tour I made scores of new friends at the local primary school, admired St Vincent's nine lancet windows, had my bones read by a local sangoma and visited a beehive – the Isandlwana Battlefields Greater iSimangaliso Wetland Park Images courtesy of Isandlwana Lodge, Roger de la Harpe & Gonzalo Prieto White Rhinos, Hluhluwe- iMfolozi Drakensburg Mountains traditional meeting house of a local Zulu family. At the boma that evening I chatted about the Battle of Isandlwana with barman Dalton Ngobese, who leads Battlefield tours alongside resident historian Rob Gerard. The Battle of Isandlwana in January 1879, when an army of Zulu warriors led by King Cetshwayo trounced an invading British army under Lieutenant General Lord Chelmsford, was one of the most dramatic events in the Kingdom's turbulent history. " We might have won the battle, but the Zulus paid a high price for victory," explained Ngobese, who is descended from a Zulu chief. Next morning we take our seats under the shadow of the Mt Isandlwana. The plain is strewn with eerie white cairns marking the spots where men fell, and where a passionate Denton has now taken centre stage. " For God's sake get your men back to the camp or it will be taken and all your men slaughtered," he booms, re- enacting the scene where the despatch rider relays a warning to Lord Chelmsford – busy eating breakfast somewhere in the hills. The Zulu warriors' courage, passion and ' horns of the buffalo' double envelopment technique completely wrong- footed the British. But the Zulu victory was short- lived and hundreds of men on both sides later drowned at Buffalo River. It was impossible not to be stirred by Ngobese's personal insight into the " disaster" and, having churlishly assumed the Battlefields weren't for me, I was now eating a large slice of humble pie. A KwaZulu- Natal Wildlife Self- Drivefrom Durban to Durban costs from £ 252 per person twin- share. A three- day Durban Hot Dealcosts from £ 179 including two nights' accommodation with breakfast, a city tour and transfers. A three- day Zululand Hot Dealstaying two nights in a luxury thatched chalet and including game drives, dinner and breakfast costs from £ 412. BOOK IT NOW south africa THE ELEPHANT COAST INCORPORATES A GOOD MIX OF LAND AND SEA SAFARI EXPERIENCES WITHIN ITS WORLD- CLASS CONSERVATION AREAS

For more holiday information and for our 2009 tour dates, please call 0800 8407 908or visit www. travelmood. com/ holidays/ newzealand/ escortedtouring or www. travelmood. com/ holidays/ australia/ apt_ tours Are you searching for a holiday that lets you take in the best of Australia and New Zealand on a one- stop, fully escorted trip? Now, more than ever, it helps to have complete transparency when it comes to pricing up your holiday. We think this all- encompassing seven, or 13- day fully escorted South Pacific Highlights tourwith Australian Pacific Touring is as good as it gets. Not only does it include all your meals and involve the same tour director from start to finish, it offers unbeatable value, at £ 875 for seven days or 13 days from £ 1,820*. Stay in comfortable, centrally located hotels and resorts and travel with local experts and professionals who will ensure you get the most from your trip. APT has more than 80 years' experience, so when it comes to seeing the best of Australia and New Zealand you'll be in very safe hands. * Flights cost extra – please enquire with your sales consultant.
Tour includes the services of a driver and tour director, quality hotels throughout, transfers, most meals and comprehensive sightseeing. TOUR HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE Save £ 100 per personon all escorted tours of 10 days or more in Australia and New Zealand, with Australian Pacific Touring. Choose from a vast range of holiday styles and destinations. Valid for new and confirmed bookings made prior to January 31, 2009 ( excludes Affordable Queensland tours). EARLYBIRD OFFER 18WINTER2008/ 09 www. travelmood. com
Full- day cruise to the Great Barrier Reef, plus free time in Cairns to explore Kuranda Rainforest Village
Stay three nights in Sydney to enjoy the sights, including a guided Opera House tour and Harbour Cruise
Stay three nights in New Zealand's adventure capital, Queenstown
Explore Mount Cook National Park, home to Australasia's highest mountain peak
A cruise along the length of Milford Sound in the World Heritage- listed Fiordland National Park
Guided city tours of Auckland and Christchurch in New Zealand
A tour of the geysers and mud pools in the geothermal area of Rotorua
A Maori Hangi feast
A cruise on Lake Wakatipu on board the vintage steamship, TSS Earnslaw, to Walter Peak High Country Farm for dinner reader offer