north america 14: 30 Shop or beach? Dedicated retail therapists will love West Hollywood's chic little boutiques and the air- conditioned splendour of the Beverly Centre, a reliable mall just opposite Real Food Daily. For something cool and ( metaphorically) cheap, don't miss Trashy Lingerie on the same street. They've dressed celebrities from Dolly Parton to Dita von Teese, so they know a thing or two about what to put under your sharpest outfit. If you want to relax and hit the shops, Santa Monica offers the best of both worlds. Its pedestrianised Third Street serves up Abercrombie and Fitch, Banana Republic, Apple and Lucky Brand Jeans brands to a crowd that looks like its just stepped of the set of The OC. Afterwards, take a stroll or rollerblade along the promenade – there's a lovely old pier with vintage funfair rides and plenty of good places to eat and drink. 18: 00 Watch a game, See a show… If the name doesn't inspire confidence, reserve judgement until you see the building. The fantastical Walt Disney Concert Hall ( main picture, below) is the hub of the downtown performing arts scene, and a spectacular sight to boot. Frank Gehry's steel- clad edifice was designed as an acoustically perfect space, and is home to the LA Philharmonic Orchestra. The hall is part of the ongoing regeneration of the Downtown area. The formerly staid business district began its metamorphosis a few years ago with the opening of the Staples Centre, home of the LA Lakers and Clippers basketball teams, also a major venue for other sports and rock concerts. Check Ticketmaster. co. uk for events at both. 22: 00 Late dinner Nightlife in LA starts late and goes on until the early hours. Famous clubs such as Whiskey Bar and The Viper Room are still going strong but the trends change daily. To appreciate the buzz of the new, go for something with a bit of pedigree too: Gordon Ramsay at the London should fit the bill. The sister restaurant to the original in Manhattan opened in April and has already won a Michelin star. The London is also a smart place to stay, with an indulgent rooftop spa. If you prefer to escape the city, head for the coast and somewhere like Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica. Its stylish white décor shouts beachfront decadence and casual luxury. Heavenly. No wonder they call it the City of Angels. A three- day Los Angles Hot Dealincluding two nights' three-star accommodation, transfers and a city tour costs from £ 133 per person. Car hire costs from £ 25 per day or £ 135 per week ( convertibles from £ 40 per day). A night at Shutters on the Beach cost from £ 249 per night. An Inside Contemporary Los Angeles tourtaking in the Los Angeles Music Center, Wells Fargo Center and the DWP Building plus post- modern edifices including the Library Tower, MOCA and Frank Gehry's Walt Disney Concert Hall cost from £ 20 per person. An Inside Historic Downtown Los Angeles tourtaking in Grand Central Market, the opulent ballrooms of the Millennium Biltmore Hotel, Central Library and the landmark Art Deco Edison and Bradbury Buildings costs from £ 20 per person. BOOK IT NOW Santa Monica Surf

M acau is a tale of two cities – a tiny former Portuguese territory at the mouth of the Pearl River, off China's southern coast, that is rapidly turning itself into the entertainment capital of Asia. Yet for every glittering, newly built casino that rears above the skyline, there's a dozen temples and churches, sunny European- style squares and winding alleyways filled with charismatic stalls, shops and eateries that have barely altered in half a century. Macau – the oldest European settlement in Asia – reverted to Chinese sovereignty in 1999, two years after neighbouring Hong Kong, which lays an hour's ferry ride to the east. But the biggest change came at the start of the new millennium, when casino licences were thrown open to international bidders. The Venetian and the Four Seasons hotels – each with their own gaming hall attached – were the first to open along the reclaimed Cotai Strip, and construction continues apace on more than a dozen other adjacent casino hotels. Adding to the Strip's lustre, Cirque du Soleil's first permanent show outside North America debuted last August, wowing spell- bound audiences with its dazzling performance ZAiA; Celine Dion and The Police headlined at the Cotai Arena concert venue; a bevy of designer label stores threw open their doors; and state- of-the art spas lined up a range of exotic treatments – try being scrubbed with chocolate or crushed diamonds! But there's so much more to Macau than bling, despite its being only 11 miles square. The trail from the border gate to mainland China through the main city and across the bridges to Taipa ( site of the rapidly expanding international airport) and on to the verdant acres of Coloane is a constant series of revelations. The city is centred Where can you find Ming- dynasty Taoist temples nudged up against Baroque churches, European piazzas and Chinese shophouses? Ed Petersexplores Macau, Asia's hidden gem 28WINTER 2008/ 09 www. travelmood. com Special blend