M acau is a tale of two cities – a tiny former Portuguese territory at the mouth of the Pearl River, off China's southern coast, that is rapidly turning itself into the entertainment capital of Asia. Yet for every glittering, newly built casino that rears above the skyline, there's a dozen temples and churches, sunny European- style squares and winding alleyways filled with charismatic stalls, shops and eateries that have barely altered in half a century. Macau – the oldest European settlement in Asia – reverted to Chinese sovereignty in 1999, two years after neighbouring Hong Kong, which lays an hour's ferry ride to the east. But the biggest change came at the start of the new millennium, when casino licences were thrown open to international bidders. The Venetian and the Four Seasons hotels – each with their own gaming hall attached – were the first to open along the reclaimed Cotai Strip, and construction continues apace on more than a dozen other adjacent casino hotels. Adding to the Strip's lustre, Cirque du Soleil's first permanent show outside North America debuted last August, wowing spell- bound audiences with its dazzling performance ZAiA; Celine Dion and The Police headlined at the Cotai Arena concert venue; a bevy of designer label stores threw open their doors; and state- of-the art spas lined up a range of exotic treatments – try being scrubbed with chocolate or crushed diamonds! But there's so much more to Macau than bling, despite its being only 11 miles square. The trail from the border gate to mainland China through the main city and across the bridges to Taipa ( site of the rapidly expanding international airport) and on to the verdant acres of Coloane is a constant series of revelations. The city is centred Where can you find Ming- dynasty Taoist temples nudged up against Baroque churches, European piazzas and Chinese shophouses? Ed Petersexplores Macau, Asia's hidden gem 28WINTER 2008/ 09 www. travelmood. com Special blend

around Senado Square, whose entrancing mosaic and graceful historic buildings were awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status in 2005. Up the hill towards the ruins of St Paul's ( only the facade remains of this former cathedral), antique Chinese furniture shops – who will obligingly ship anywhere in the world – sit cheek by jowl with galleries, while the air is thick with the aroma of barbecued pork slices, a local speciality noisily hawked from streetside stalls. Macanese architecture – and city planning – has an inherent capacity to surprise. A traditional wet market sits a few steps from a 17th century church, tenements hung with washing are just round the corner from whistles- and- sirens casinos, and on Coloane there are traditional houses built on over- the-water piles and old boat yards where wooden junks are hand- carved. It's all part of Macau's legendary charm. The northern end of the main bridge across to Taipa lies in the shadow of the 1,100ft Macau Tower, which is a magnet for bungy enthusiasts – and a straightforward 360- degree view from the Skywalk for those less into freefall derring- do. The real gem of this former island is Taipa village, whose grand villas, churches and incense- wreathed temples are linked by cobbled streets. Barbers snooze in their chairs waiting for custom, bakeries turn out scrumptious warm egg tarts ( another must- have- another edible souvenir) by the dozen, and traders carry their wares to market in baskets yoked across their shoulders. If Taipa is laid- back, Coloane – past the slightly surreal Cotai development – is practically horizontal. There are no casinos here by government decree, hiking trails criss- cross forested hills and Macau's challenging 18- hole golf course overlooks the South China Sea. Visit picturesque Eduardo Marques Square for a slice of café culture or save yourself for some oven-roasted suckling pig and charcoal- grilled chicken. That lunches here tend to stretch well towards teatime is symptomatic of the easy Mediterranean attitudes that have extended well beyond the Handover, and despite the changes wrought by a wave of multi- billion pataca construction projects. Dining has always been an integral part of any visit here, with Macanese cuisine found all over Macau. African chicken is a favourite, and Portuguese restaurants dishing up the catch of the day abound. The venerable A Lorcha has been serving its baked minced beef potato pie and codfish in cream sauce for decades, and it's rare to find any empty table here at mealtimes. Heading out from A Lorcha along the waterfront leads past some of Macau's most striking attractions. Devotees were worshipping at A- Ma temple long before the first Portuguese traders made landfall in the mid 16th century – an incident showcased in the world- class Maritime Museum a short walk away. The Pousada de São Tiago is Macau's only true boutique hotel, its dozen suites housed in what was originally a fortress built in the 17th century. Beyond the Macau Ferry Terminal, the broad avenues are transformed each November into a race track for the Macau Grand Prix while just beyond the control tower Fisherman's Wharf, the city's only theme park, includes among its multifarious attractions a 2,000- seat Roman amphitheatre and a volcano. Part fantasy, part dreamland, part historical gem and the ultimate example of east meeting west, gambling and gourmet Mecca Macau has no peer in Asia or – it might be argued – the rest of the world. " That lunches tend to stretch well towards teatime is symptomatic of the easy Mediterranean attitudes that have extended well beyond the Handover" My perfect day 10: 00Start by browsing the antique shops below the Ruins of St Paul's, then wend your way downhill to Senado Square. 12: 00Grab a cab or hop on a bus ( five patacas – 40 pence!) to Coloane for an early lunch at Hac Sa Beach. 14: 00Walk back along the coast ( approx 45 minutes) to sleepy Coloane village – something of a time capsule and a stark contrast to modern Macau. 17: 00Even if you're not a gambler it's well worth popping into one of the more electrifying casino examples on the way home, while the brand- spanking-new Four Seasons hotel boasts the best spa. 19: 00Try to squeeze in supper at one of Macau's oldest restaurants, Solmar ( ask for the African chicken grilled in piri piri peppers), washed down with a crisp Portuguese white. 22: 00Finish on a high and take in show at the Cotai Arena or Cirque du Soleil. EP A four- night Macau holidaycosts from £ 389 per person twin- share at the four- star Mandarin Oriental Macau, including a day tour. A five- hour private tour of Taipavillage costs £ 99 per person. A return flight to Macau with a stopover in Kuala Lumpur costs £ 735, valid Apr 12 to Jun 15. Book by Mar 31. A seven- day Hong Kong and Macautwin- centre costs £ 369 per person including three nights in each city, airport transfers in Hong Kong and return ferry crossing to Macau. www. travelmood. comWINTER2008/ 09 29 asia Images courtesy of Macau Government Tourist Office and Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts, Macau BOOK IT NOW