around Senado Square, whose entrancing mosaic and graceful historic buildings were awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status in 2005. Up the hill towards the ruins of St Paul's ( only the facade remains of this former cathedral), antique Chinese furniture shops – who will obligingly ship anywhere in the world – sit cheek by jowl with galleries, while the air is thick with the aroma of barbecued pork slices, a local speciality noisily hawked from streetside stalls. Macanese architecture – and city planning – has an inherent capacity to surprise. A traditional wet market sits a few steps from a 17th century church, tenements hung with washing are just round the corner from whistles- and- sirens casinos, and on Coloane there are traditional houses built on over- the-water piles and old boat yards where wooden junks are hand- carved. It's all part of Macau's legendary charm. The northern end of the main bridge across to Taipa lies in the shadow of the 1,100ft Macau Tower, which is a magnet for bungy enthusiasts – and a straightforward 360- degree view from the Skywalk for those less into freefall derring- do. The real gem of this former island is Taipa village, whose grand villas, churches and incense- wreathed temples are linked by cobbled streets. Barbers snooze in their chairs waiting for custom, bakeries turn out scrumptious warm egg tarts ( another must- have- another edible souvenir) by the dozen, and traders carry their wares to market in baskets yoked across their shoulders. If Taipa is laid- back, Coloane – past the slightly surreal Cotai development – is practically horizontal. There are no casinos here by government decree, hiking trails criss- cross forested hills and Macau's challenging 18- hole golf course overlooks the South China Sea. Visit picturesque Eduardo Marques Square for a slice of café culture or save yourself for some oven-roasted suckling pig and charcoal- grilled chicken. That lunches here tend to stretch well towards teatime is symptomatic of the easy Mediterranean attitudes that have extended well beyond the Handover, and despite the changes wrought by a wave of multi- billion pataca construction projects. Dining has always been an integral part of any visit here, with Macanese cuisine found all over Macau. African chicken is a favourite, and Portuguese restaurants dishing up the catch of the day abound. The venerable A Lorcha has been serving its baked minced beef potato pie and codfish in cream sauce for decades, and it's rare to find any empty table here at mealtimes. Heading out from A Lorcha along the waterfront leads past some of Macau's most striking attractions. Devotees were worshipping at A- Ma temple long before the first Portuguese traders made landfall in the mid 16th century – an incident showcased in the world- class Maritime Museum a short walk away. The Pousada de São Tiago is Macau's only true boutique hotel, its dozen suites housed in what was originally a fortress built in the 17th century. Beyond the Macau Ferry Terminal, the broad avenues are transformed each November into a race track for the Macau Grand Prix while just beyond the control tower Fisherman's Wharf, the city's only theme park, includes among its multifarious attractions a 2,000- seat Roman amphitheatre and a volcano. Part fantasy, part dreamland, part historical gem and the ultimate example of east meeting west, gambling and gourmet Mecca Macau has no peer in Asia or – it might be argued – the rest of the world. " That lunches tend to stretch well towards teatime is symptomatic of the easy Mediterranean attitudes that have extended well beyond the Handover" My perfect day 10: 00Start by browsing the antique shops below the Ruins of St Paul's, then wend your way downhill to Senado Square. 12: 00Grab a cab or hop on a bus ( five patacas – 40 pence!) to Coloane for an early lunch at Hac Sa Beach. 14: 00Walk back along the coast ( approx 45 minutes) to sleepy Coloane village – something of a time capsule and a stark contrast to modern Macau. 17: 00Even if you're not a gambler it's well worth popping into one of the more electrifying casino examples on the way home, while the brand- spanking-new Four Seasons hotel boasts the best spa. 19: 00Try to squeeze in supper at one of Macau's oldest restaurants, Solmar ( ask for the African chicken grilled in piri piri peppers), washed down with a crisp Portuguese white. 22: 00Finish on a high and take in show at the Cotai Arena or Cirque du Soleil. EP A four- night Macau holidaycosts from £ 389 per person twin- share at the four- star Mandarin Oriental Macau, including a day tour. A five- hour private tour of Taipavillage costs £ 99 per person. A return flight to Macau with a stopover in Kuala Lumpur costs £ 735, valid Apr 12 to Jun 15. Book by Mar 31. A seven- day Hong Kong and Macautwin- centre costs £ 369 per person including three nights in each city, airport transfers in Hong Kong and return ferry crossing to Macau. www. travelmood. comWINTER2008/ 09 29 asia Images courtesy of Macau Government Tourist Office and Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts, Macau BOOK IT NOW

30WINTER2008/ 09 www. travelmood. com Simon Capstick- Daleboarded a safari truck for an exciting journey across a swathe of Southern Africa I t's a glorious autumn morning in Cape Town and a group of intrepid travellers is watching the last of their bags being loaded into the belly of the ' cheetah' – the English translation of Dindingwe. After being briefed by tour leaders our 12- strong group is finally ready to embark on a 3,231- mile journey from Cape Town to Zimbabwe via neighbouring Namibia and Botswana. As the last traveller steps aboard the safari truck Que, our driver, flicks the ignition. With the help of Blessing, our guide, Que is about to make our dream African dream holiday a reality. First stop is the beach at Table View for a final goodbye to South Africa. Is there a better place to say goodbye to what is arguably the most beautiful city in the world? I doubt it. With sand in our shoes we make tracks for Citrusdal, gateway to the Cederberg, where Dindingwe will take a well-deserved rest ahead of her journey across the Namibian border the following morning. Tents up, we take a hike through the magnificent Cederberg Mountains to work up an appetite for supper at Macgregor's, the camp restaurant. After a good night's rest we're ready to hit the road for the long haul to Felix Unite Camp, just past the border separating South Africa and Namibia. Our first destination is Namibia's largest national park – the Namib- Naukluft. We venture down into the Sesriem Canyon where, more than 10 million years before, gravel and sand were cemented together with limestone to form this magnificent canyon teaming with exotic birdlife. That evening we gawk at the sunset from an upstairs terrace at the Agama River Camp, toasting the canyon's sandy peaks with a cool Windhoek Lager. In Sossusvlei, Namibia's dune wonderland, we see our first game of the trip – oryx, ostrich and zebra. We make a stop to climb the infamous Dune 45, and while I try to fathom this extraordinarily vast desert landscape of rolling sand dunes scattered with Acacia trees and Nara plants I can't help but think that our journey has truly begun. After a dune breakfast we embark on a tour of Sossusvlei stopping at Dead Vlei – the bleak and dried out pan that resembles the surface of the moon. Next morning Dindingwe is headed for Swakopmund, a German- settled town nestled between desert and sea. Here, we spend two nights in Swakop Lodge Aroadless