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False Travel Namibia 1 42 Contents Travel Namibia Edition 2, May 2008 3 Editorial: Our publisher welcomes you to this new edition of Travel Namibia. 6 Open Spaces: The fossil desert. MORO 10 People Trance dancing hits the UK; the Mafwe people open a heritage museum; etiquette savvy from an ambassador’s wife; Hairy Bikerss Namibian recipe. 12 Wildlife Wet wonders – wildlife that comes out in the rains; desert horses; Cape fur seals; the rare Blue Crane bird 14 Moro New border crossing points; adopt a mysterious fairy circle; recommended reads; chefs’ academy FEATURES 18 Cover Story: Inside Etosha Photographers Ann and Steve Toon explore Etosha National Park, revealing where to go when for the best wildlife experience. 24 Portfolio: Himba Wedding Acclaimed photographers Carol Beckwith and Angela Fisher’s pictures of a celebration in Kaokoland. 28 Essay: Sands of Time Len Rix digs deep to explore the mystique of Namibian sand. 30 Undiscovered Namibia: Fish River for softies Fabian von Poser takes the easy way down into the canyon – at least he thinks he does. 32 Adventure: On foot across Namibia Fran Sandham reaches the Caprivi Strip. He’s surprised by the lush land, but his feet are sore and he’s a little worried about lions. OLWEENDO 36 Seasons in the Sun: Our map shows you the best places to visit in each season. 38 Safari: A new camp in Etosha; a revamp in Damaraland, a luxury retreat gets backing on Impalila, and much more. 40 Accommodation guide: Chris McIntyre of Bradt Guides runs through what’s available. 42 Itineraries: A wedding, an adventure and family fun. Three itineraries to get you started. 44 Namibia Fact File: Everything you need to know before you leave. 48 Backlog: Rest in Peace. Hamilton Wende is a little spooked when he visits the abandoned town of Kolmanskop. 18 Meet the cubs that captivated Ann and Steve Toon 30 Let mules carry your pack on a Fish River trek Fabian Von Poseroseroser 36 Relax – we’ve got your holiday details covered MUSHARA