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Travel Namibia 1 42 Contents Travel Namibia Edition 3, November 2008 3 Community spirit. Editor Mary Askew welcomes you to this issue of Travel Namibia. 8 Portfolio: Taking a different view. Photographer George Steinmetz's take on Namibia's remote landscapes. MORO 14 People A San ' living museum'; the expat life in Namibia; saying ' hello' in Namibia; Ostrich egg sales fund an environmental classroom… 17 Wildlife Why they are putting chilli in Caprivi elephant dung; wild dog return to Waterberg; where hyenas wander; the arguments for and against a recent desert elephant hunt; protecting the Damara tern; a day in the life of a cheetah tracker, training guides to deal with rhino….. FEATURES 24 Essential Namibia: Beyond Sossusvlei. Our team of writers reveal their favourite places to go in the Namib after you have enjoyed the sands of Sossusvlei. 32 Undiscovered Namibia: World record- breaking diver Verna van Schaik searches for lost gold in the uncharted depths of Namibia's lakes. 36 NICE chefs: Sharri Whiting looks at the background to a new restaurant in Windhoek which is training chefs for the country's luxury lodges. 40 Desert rhino. Martin Benadie tracks a desert rhino and retraces the steps taken to protect it. 42 Interpreting Etosha. Hu Berry tells the stories behind some of Etosha's place names. 44 Wilderness children. How one Namibian charity is changing lives. OLWEENDO 48 Map: Community Concerns. Where to find some of Namibia's top community projects. 50 News: Lodge revamps, mealie meal massages, new camps open and a vital fuel stop closes. 54 Driving tips: Your guide to a safe trip, from Namibian driving instructor, Richard Hoff. 58 Fact file: Everything you need to know about Namibia before you leave home. 60 Itineraries: Caring for the community as you travel: Christopher Hill suggests an itinerary for travellers with a conscience. 64 Backlog: Hamilton Wende is enchanted by the Himba on a trip to Opuwo. 17 Wild dog return to Waterberg 24 Ten top reasons to stay in the Namib 50 We've got your holiday details covered