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May 2009 Travel Zambia 1 Contents Travel Zambia Edition 5, May 2009 3 Editorial: Room to roam A welcome to Travel Zambia from editor, Mike Unwin 4 In the Frame: Waters rising Photographer Thys van de Merwe captures the Kuomboka festival. NKANI Meet here for all the latest news and views from around Zambia. 10- 13 People Drama teacher inspired by street kids; Jason Bourne in Zambia; home thoughts from abroad; fond farewell to canine companion; bush baking; artwork from poachers' snares; nurturing native trees 14- 17 Habitat Sioma Ngwezi; South Luangwa eco awards; chilli bullets; canoeing with crocs; pangolin for Christmas; Chimfunshi update 18- 19 Culture Steaming through history; reader's Luangwa journal; competition FEATURES 20 Cover Story: The giant awakes Kafue National Park remains surprisingly little known outside Zambia. Mike Unwin travels this vast wilderness in search of its secrets; plus comprehensive guide on where to stay. 28 Interview: Bush doctor Dr Ivan Cox talks to Travel Zambia about life as the ' Valley Doctor' in South Luangwa, and offers some health tips for safaris. 30 Zambia undiscovered: The plain truth Stephen Cunliffe heads west to the wide open space of Liuwa Plain National Park, where the horizons teem with wildlife. 34 Lodge Life: Guide lines Zambia's safari guides are the stuff of legend. Anna Devereux Baker explains why and hears from some of the guides themselves. 38 Safari focus: Quick on the draw Mary- Anne Bartlett, founder of Art Safari, explains how a sketchbook allows a new perspective on wildlife. VAKACHA Hit the road with our safari news, travel advice and top visitor tips. 40- 41 Around Zambia: Hotspots for hooves Where to fi nd Zambia's top antelope attractions. 42 Road trips for the rugged Two exciting self- drive itineraries. 43 Safari Elephant- back safaris, game drives for kids and all the latest news. 48 A helping hand Community library, partnership park and more. 56 Inside View: Whose village? Jo Pope wonders what the global recession has in store for Zambia. Skimming the surface: a whistle- stop tour of Kafue's vast wilderness 20 The long trek: Liuwa 30Plain revealed See for yourself: why Zambia's guides are the best in Africa 34 NORMAN CARR SAFARISSTEPHEN CUNLIFFEDANA ALLEN / WILDERNESS SAFARIS