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Zambia’s Finest The Royal Livingstone, Victoria FallsFree night offer - pay for 3 nights stay 4For reservations T: 0870 443 4482 W: www.thomascook.comTerms and conditions applySun

November 2007 Travel Zambia Contents Travel Zambia Edition 2, November 2007 5 Editorial: Green gold A seasonal welcome to Travel Zambia from editor, Mike Unwin. 8 In the frame: Spirit of the land Zambia through the lens of photographer Stephen Robinson. NKANI Meet here for all the latest news and views from around Zambia. 1 4 Voices S ir Ranulph Fiennes visits Zambezi; deaf guide gets married; George Gregan’s Zambian roots; star student on UK life; a wedding planner dreams; microlight over Luangwa; obituary 1 8 Habitat L iuwa Plains; chimpanzee orphanage; rhino relocation update; stopping wildlife crime; focus on African skimmer; Luangwa lions; lovebird sightings 22 Nkani H istoric bridge; traditional recipe; traveller’s journal; competition FEATURES 24 Cover story: Emerald smile I t’s all change with the rains. Anna Devereux explores Luangwa during the green season, and we offer seasonal tips and highlights from around the country. 32 Interview: Digging deep A rchaeologist Professor Larry Barham talks about unearthing Zambia’s prehistory. 36 Zambia undiscovered: In search of the source I n the little-known mountains of northeast Zambia a mighty river is born. Mike Unwin hits the trail to find out exactly where. 40 Heritage: The house on the hill O ne family has made Zambia’s art collection its passion and its business. Jake da Motta reports from Chaminuka. 42 Lodge life: Opening up R unning a lodge sounds like a bush-lover’s dream. But how do you get started? Huw Williams hears two operators’ stories from Kafue. VAKACHA Hit the road with our safari news, travel advice and top visitor tips. 46 Around Zambia Check out our map for the best of Zambia’s wildlife. 48 Itineraries Three budgets; three safaris. 49 Safari Solomon’s sounds safari, plus all the safaris news and top tips for self-drive. 54 A helping hand Projects and events that give something back, plus a guide to volunteering. 60 Taking off Travel updates on getting from A to B. 64 Inside view: Looking after Lower Zambezi S afari guide and conservationist Grant Cumings on the dilemmas facing Zambian conservation today. Takeover bid. A tale of turmoil among Luangwa’s lions. 21 Green grows the valley. In praise of the rainy season safari. 24 Take the high road. Onward and upward into the Mafingas. 36