22 Travel Zambia November 2007 Historic Zambia: Building on faith In the northwest corner of Zambia a remarkable construction stands as testimony to one man’s unshakeable faith. The Chinyingi Bridge, close to the Angola border and about 220km from the headwaters of the Zambezi, is the work and inspiration of Brother Crispin Baleri, a Franciscan brother who was sent to serve at the Chinyingi Mission in 1964. The Mission stands on the western side of the Zambezi. When Baleri arrived in this remote district he found that the only way across the river was by dugout canoe. Since the Mission served the community on both banks, and all supplies had to be brought across the river, this represented a major obstacle. Brother Crispin’s solution was to build a pontoon. But in 1971, after a canoe accident claimed eight lives, he decided something more permanent was required. Baleri had no training as an engineer, but before receiving his calling he had worked as a mechanic in Chicago. Inspiration came when he saw a picture of a ‘catwalk’ suspension bridge used for transporting goats across a river in Nepal. With painstaking research and the help of sympathetic individuals, he drew up detailed plans. There was little money available, but Crispin managed to obtain the steel cables and other building materials he needed as ‘surplus’ from mines in the Copperbelt, and employed six unskilled local labourers. Work started in 1972 and the bridge took five years to construct. Progress was slow: collecting materials often involved a 1,600km round-trip on atrocious roads. There were also numerous hiccups along the way: twice the supporting towers had to be raised when it transpired that even at maximum tension the bridge still sagged too low above the water; and at one point a fellow brother, of rather substantial frame, broke through the flooring and plummeted 15m to the river below, from where he was retrieved unharmed (the flooring was subsequently reinforced). But at each setback Crispin’s resolve merely redoubled. By 1977 the Chinyingi community at last had their bridge. It measured 310m between the towers, each of which stood 20m high, and spanned a 220m-wide stretch of river. Today this enterprising structure, also known as the Chalo Bridge, still stands strong and has a new pontoon bridge underneath it for vehicles. It remains one of only five bridges along the 2,574km length of the Zambezi, with up to 500 people crossing each day to and from Chinyingi Mission and its 52-bed hospital. In 1992 Baleri moved to St Bonaventure College in Lusaka, where to this day he serves the Franciscan community in the city. With thanks to Richard H. Miller Recipe: Ifisashi Ifisashi is a popular dish of greens in peanut sauce. It is usually served with nshima, the maize-meal porridge that is the staple food across Zambia. Meat can be added if available. This recipe serves four. Ingredients 1–2 cups raw peanuts, with shells and skins removed 1 onion, chopped 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1kg of chopped greens, e.g. pumpkin leaves or spinach, with stems removed salt (to taste) cooked cabbage (optional) leftover cooked beef, chicken or fish (optional) Directions Chop or pound peanuts into powder (or use natural, sugar-free peanut butter). Bring 4–5 cups of water to the boil in a large pot. Add peanuts, tomatoes and onion. Cook on high heat for 3–4 minutes, stirring often. Reduce heat. Stir in greens and add salt. Cover and cook for a further 15–45 minutes (according to greens used), stirring occasionally. Continue cooking until greens and peanuts are reduced to a thick sauce, adding more water if required. Adjust seasoning and add optional ingredients. Serve hot. Some key dates in Zambian history 1855: David Livingstone is first European to see Victoria Falls. 1923: British South Africa Company cedes Northern Rhodesia to British government. 1953: Northern Rhodesia and southern Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) join Nyasaland (now Malawi) to form Federation of Rhodesia and Nyasaland. 1960–61: Zambian people demonstrate against Federation. 1963: Federation dissolved. 24 October 1964: Republic of Zambia proclaimed; Kenneth Kaunda is first president. PATRICK WAGNER / AFRICANPICTURES.NET Ingredients sold at any Zambian market. ROBIN DALY / AFRICANPICTURES.NET

November 2007 Travel Zambia 23 There is more than one big waterfall in Zambia. This spectacular cascade is the last on the Kalungwisha River before it enters lake Mweru, and consists of an upper and a lower waterfall separated by rapids. The main waterfall, pictured here, is 25m high and 70m wide. It is revered by local people, who believe that ignoring ritual and prayer at the falls brings about bad luck. Do you recognise this place? Tell us where in Zambia you think the above picture was taken and you could win one of five copies of Zambia: the Bradt Travel Guide. Send your answer on a postcard to Zambia Bradt Competition, Travel Zambia Magazine, 4 Rycote Lane Farm, Milton Common, Oxford, OX9 2NZ, United Kingdom. Or email your answer to competitions@travelafricamag.com, putting Zambia Bradt Competition in the subject line. Entries MUST include your full postal address and daytime phone number. Only one entry per household. Entries close on 31 January 2008. GUESS WHERE And win the Bradt guide to Zambia Reader’s Journal Fact-finding mission Tricia Hayne is a seasoned editor with Bradt Travel Guides. In June 2007 she hit the road to help research the fourth edition of Chris McIntyre’s acclaimed guide to Zambia. Here her journal records a day spent around the shores of Lake Bangweulu. A quick cup of tea fuelled our early-morning vigil watching sitatunga at sunrise from a treetop hide in Kasanka National Park. After an all-too-rushed breakfast and a run-down on the park’s rates, it was off to the Livingstone Memorial to check out the directions in the guide and see if you still need to book in at the clinic. You do. A group of youngsters from the nearby village wanted to check us out, too, which made for some good photographs and a bit of fun. It was Saturday, and with supplies running low we stopped at a shop selling bicycle spares for tomatoes and deep-fried dough balls; no bread until Monday. One of Zambia’s unexpectedly good tar roads brought us to the small town of Samfya, where a lively church group had taken over the grounds of a hotel on the shores of Lake Bangweulu. Teenagers, many of them fully dressed, were cavorting in the shallows, so we pitched our tent and followed suit. Only later did we learn that crocs shared our passion for the cool, clear waters; another warning for the guide. It was an idyllic evening, though, with a beautiful sunset reflected across the water. A soft droning sound seemed to enhance the stillness, but soon we were we diving for cover as thousands upon thousands of buzzing insects found their way into every crevice. Perhaps this was a cue to try out the restaurant. Unfortunately not: dinner was off and the fridge was out of beer. And Coke. And indeed water. We dined on rice and tomatoes, and the hotel’s write-up was duly amended. BOB HAYNE THORN TREE SAFARIS