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November 2007 Travel Zambia 23 There is more than one big waterfall in Zambia. This spectacular cascade is the last on the Kalungwisha River before it enters lake Mweru, and consists of an upper and a lower waterfall separated by rapids. The main waterfall, pictured here, is 25m high and 70m wide. It is revered by local people, who believe that ignoring ritual and prayer at the falls brings about bad luck. Do you recognise this place? Tell us where in Zambia you think the above picture was taken and you could win one of five copies of Zambia: the Bradt Travel Guide. Send your answer on a postcard to Zambia Bradt Competition, Travel Zambia Magazine, 4 Rycote Lane Farm, Milton Common, Oxford, OX9 2NZ, United Kingdom. Or email your answer to competitions@travelafricamag.com, putting Zambia Bradt Competition in the subject line. Entries MUST include your full postal address and daytime phone number. Only one entry per household. Entries close on 31 January 2008. GUESS WHERE And win the Bradt guide to Zambia Reader’s Journal Fact-finding mission Tricia Hayne is a seasoned editor with Bradt Travel Guides. In June 2007 she hit the road to help research the fourth edition of Chris McIntyre’s acclaimed guide to Zambia. Here her journal records a day spent around the shores of Lake Bangweulu. A quick cup of tea fuelled our early-morning vigil watching sitatunga at sunrise from a treetop hide in Kasanka National Park. After an all-too-rushed breakfast and a run-down on the park’s rates, it was off to the Livingstone Memorial to check out the directions in the guide and see if you still need to book in at the clinic. You do. A group of youngsters from the nearby village wanted to check us out, too, which made for some good photographs and a bit of fun. It was Saturday, and with supplies running low we stopped at a shop selling bicycle spares for tomatoes and deep-fried dough balls; no bread until Monday. One of Zambia’s unexpectedly good tar roads brought us to the small town of Samfya, where a lively church group had taken over the grounds of a hotel on the shores of Lake Bangweulu. Teenagers, many of them fully dressed, were cavorting in the shallows, so we pitched our tent and followed suit. Only later did we learn that crocs shared our passion for the cool, clear waters; another warning for the guide. It was an idyllic evening, though, with a beautiful sunset reflected across the water. A soft droning sound seemed to enhance the stillness, but soon we were we diving for cover as thousands upon thousands of buzzing insects found their way into every crevice. Perhaps this was a cue to try out the restaurant. Unfortunately not: dinner was off and the fridge was out of beer. And Coke. And indeed water. We dined on rice and tomatoes, and the hotel’s write-up was duly amended. BOB HAYNE THORN TREE SAFARIS

24 Travel Zambia November 2007 Green Season BRYAN JACKSON / REMOTE AFRICA SAFARIS