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False 38 Travel Zambia May 2008 And for a region defined by industry, there is still a surprising amount of wildlife. The days when a lion strolled down Luanshya High Street may be long gone ( though elephants occasionally stray into some of the peri- urban smallholdings and farms) but the river is home to plenty of hippos and crocs, and a rich selection of antelope and smaller game can be seen in local nature reserves. Meanwhile the forested riverbanks and isolated tracts of mushitu rainforest, harbour a rich variety of birdlife – much of it scarce elsewhere in Zambia. Among a good 400 species in the region are such northern Zambian ‘ specials’ as Lady Ross’s turaco, the stunning red- and- blue sunbird ( mostly yellow!), and the blackbacked and Anchieta’s barbets. Perhaps the Copperbelt’s best- known wildlife attraction revolves around an animal that is not indigenous to Zambia at all. Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage, about 20km off the Solwezi road from Chingola, is a world- renowned sanctuary for over 100 chimpanzees, which live in troops in special enclosures in the bush. Dave and Sheila Siddle founded the orphanage in the 1983 when they were presented with a chimpanzee that had outgrown the Copperbelt family who had kept it as a pet. Thereafter, as their reputation grew, they received chimpanzees from all over the world, as well as other wild animals, including smuggled African grey parrots and an abandoned hippo. Despite the sad death in 2006 of Dave Siddle, Chimfunshi goes from strength to strength. Chalet accommodation and camping are available for those who book in advance, and visitors can join morning bush walks with the baby chimps and watch them learning to forage – although not much foraging goes on when there are strangers in the party who can be jumped on from a tree or whose shoe laces can be untied and specs pinched. Just south of Ndola lies Nsobe Game Camp, where a variety of wild animals roams the pristine bush. Visitors on game drives and bush trails can search for giraffe and zebra, or some of Zambia’s more elusive antelope, including eland, sable and sitatunga, while bird watchers have been known to tick off more than eighty species in a morning. Canoeing and fishing are also available, though some visitors complain that the ambience is so relaxing and the bar just too inviting to stray any further than the lodge. Day visitors are welcome, and there is overnight accommodation in the form of luxury en suite safari tents. Sable are also among a variety of antelope species to be seen at Kafue Lodge, where birders also have an excellent chance of finding the elusive Pel’s fishing owl. This well- appointed Some visitors complain that the ambience is so relaxing and the bar just too inviting to stray any further than the lodge. Above left: Sable antelope at Nsobe Game Camp Above right: Chimpanzee feeding at Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage Far right: Fishing in the tranquil waters of the Kafue

False May 2008 Travel Zambia 39 group of eight chalets nestles on the banks of the Kafue, south of Luanshya, and is a haven for fishermen ( and women). Other activities include river cruises, and game walks and drives in the surrounding miombo woodland. The nearby Lake Kashiba, also known as the ‘ Sunken Lake’, is a small, almost circular lake of enormous depth that has resulted from a geological sinkhole. Set in an area of relic rainforest, it is an eerie place with all sorts of legends and stories attached, and well worth a visit. Birdwatchers will also be rewarded some 27km west of Kitwe at Chembe Bird Sanctuary, also known as ‘ 17 Mile Dambo’. This 450- hectare reserve is a protected wetland in an area of natural miombo woodland that has somehow survived the advance of local smallholdings and villages. At its centre is a small lake, which was intended as a reservoir for nearby Kalulushi. Rowing boats are for hire and the fishing is excellent – some say that there is no better- tasting bream in Zambia. The Copperbelt, with its towns and industry, may not suit conventional tourist tastes. Yet the area has a fascinating history to explore. And for those visitors who make the effort, the Kafue River offers some of Zambia’s most delightful and unexpected hideaways. Just take a look behind the smokescreen. Zambia undiscovered Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage Tel 260- 2- 311293 www. chimfunshi. org. za Chimfunshi is not fully set up to cater for tourists, but accommodation is available for interested, paying guests who contact the orphanage in advance. Alternatively stay in nearby Chingola ( see below) Nsobe Game Camp Tel 02610113 www. nsobegamecamp. com Turn- off 35km south of Ndola; en suite safari tents; bar and restaurant; game drives, walks, fishing, canoeing Kafue Lodge Tel 02 311642/ 722 voychin@ zamnet. zm Near Mpongwe; self- catering chalets; restaurant; game farm, fishing, walks; river cruises Also Chembe Bird Sanctuary 30km from Kitwe on the Kalalushi/ Kasempa Road Lake Kashiba Safe swimming, camping facilities; good birdwatching Copperbelt Museum Buteko Avenue, Ndola ( diagonally opposite New Savoy Hotel) Dag Hammerskjold Memorial 10km along the Ndola/ Kitwe road; commemorates the site where the UN Secretary General died in a plane crash in 1961. Where to stay in town Kabwe Tusker’s hotel Tel ( 0215) 222076– 7, 222498 email tuskers@ zamnet. zm. Kabwe Lodge Telefax 05 224297 Zambezi Source Lodge Tel 05 223256, 222597 Ndola New Savoy Hotel Tel 02 611097/ 8 Mukuba Hotel ( 6km south of town) Tel 02651000/ 4 mukhotel@ zamtel. zm Traveller’s Lodge Tel 02 621840 email travel@ zamnet. zm New Ambassador Hotel newambassadorhotel@ yahoo. com Kitwe Copperfields Executive Guesthouse Tel 02 23 0709/ 10 cfields@ zamnet. zm Edinburgh Hotel Tel 02 222444 edin@ zamnet. zm Mukwa Lodge Tel 212 224266 www. mukwalodge. co. zm Sherbourne Farm Lodge Tel 02 222168/ 230548 sherbo@ zamnet. zm Eagle Guesthouse www. eagleguesthouse- kitwe. com Chingola Protea Hotel Tel 02 312810 fax 02 313510 protea@ zamtel. zm Lima Hotel Tel 311894 Musunshya Hotel Tel 312105/ 311 THE COPPERBELT FOR VISITORS Solwezi ZAMBIA DEM. REP. CONGO Chingola Kitwe Ndola Mkushi Kapiri Mposhi Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphange Nsobe Game Camp Mfuwe Lodge Kafue River