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False May 2008 Travel Zambia 39 group of eight chalets nestles on the banks of the Kafue, south of Luanshya, and is a haven for fishermen ( and women). Other activities include river cruises, and game walks and drives in the surrounding miombo woodland. The nearby Lake Kashiba, also known as the ‘ Sunken Lake’, is a small, almost circular lake of enormous depth that has resulted from a geological sinkhole. Set in an area of relic rainforest, it is an eerie place with all sorts of legends and stories attached, and well worth a visit. Birdwatchers will also be rewarded some 27km west of Kitwe at Chembe Bird Sanctuary, also known as ‘ 17 Mile Dambo’. This 450- hectare reserve is a protected wetland in an area of natural miombo woodland that has somehow survived the advance of local smallholdings and villages. At its centre is a small lake, which was intended as a reservoir for nearby Kalulushi. Rowing boats are for hire and the fishing is excellent – some say that there is no better- tasting bream in Zambia. The Copperbelt, with its towns and industry, may not suit conventional tourist tastes. Yet the area has a fascinating history to explore. And for those visitors who make the effort, the Kafue River offers some of Zambia’s most delightful and unexpected hideaways. Just take a look behind the smokescreen. Zambia undiscovered Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage Tel 260- 2- 311293 www. chimfunshi. org. za Chimfunshi is not fully set up to cater for tourists, but accommodation is available for interested, paying guests who contact the orphanage in advance. Alternatively stay in nearby Chingola ( see below) Nsobe Game Camp Tel 02610113 www. nsobegamecamp. com Turn- off 35km south of Ndola; en suite safari tents; bar and restaurant; game drives, walks, fishing, canoeing Kafue Lodge Tel 02 311642/ 722 voychin@ zamnet. zm Near Mpongwe; self- catering chalets; restaurant; game farm, fishing, walks; river cruises Also Chembe Bird Sanctuary 30km from Kitwe on the Kalalushi/ Kasempa Road Lake Kashiba Safe swimming, camping facilities; good birdwatching Copperbelt Museum Buteko Avenue, Ndola ( diagonally opposite New Savoy Hotel) Dag Hammerskjold Memorial 10km along the Ndola/ Kitwe road; commemorates the site where the UN Secretary General died in a plane crash in 1961. Where to stay in town Kabwe Tusker’s hotel Tel ( 0215) 222076– 7, 222498 email tuskers@ zamnet. zm. Kabwe Lodge Telefax 05 224297 Zambezi Source Lodge Tel 05 223256, 222597 Ndola New Savoy Hotel Tel 02 611097/ 8 Mukuba Hotel ( 6km south of town) Tel 02651000/ 4 mukhotel@ zamtel. zm Traveller’s Lodge Tel 02 621840 email travel@ zamnet. zm New Ambassador Hotel newambassadorhotel@ yahoo. com Kitwe Copperfields Executive Guesthouse Tel 02 23 0709/ 10 cfields@ zamnet. zm Edinburgh Hotel Tel 02 222444 edin@ zamnet. zm Mukwa Lodge Tel 212 224266 www. mukwalodge. co. zm Sherbourne Farm Lodge Tel 02 222168/ 230548 sherbo@ zamnet. zm Eagle Guesthouse www. eagleguesthouse- kitwe. com Chingola Protea Hotel Tel 02 312810 fax 02 313510 protea@ zamtel. zm Lima Hotel Tel 311894 Musunshya Hotel Tel 312105/ 311 THE COPPERBELT FOR VISITORS Solwezi ZAMBIA DEM. REP. CONGO Chingola Kitwe Ndola Mkushi Kapiri Mposhi Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphange Nsobe Game Camp Mfuwe Lodge Kafue River

False Organic forest honey In the northwest of Zambia, economic empowerment is thriving thanks to millions of wild bees. Here, 9,000 subsistence village beekeepers of the Lunda people receive an income via the Fairtrade scheme for producing organic forest honey. Under the producer-owned North- West Bee Products ( NWBP) organisation, the scheme guarantees a fair price for the honey, and encourages sustainable methods that help the beekeepers preserve their environment and guarantee future harvests. The handcrafted bark hives in which the honey is produced are set deep within the region’s miombo woodlands. Spanning over 28,000 square kilometres, these ancient, pristine forests cradle the headwaters of the mighty Zambezi River. Among the rich biodiversity that thrives here is one of the world’s highest densities of wild bee colonies. The beekeepers use ancient, traditional methods to gather their precious bounty ??????? . They hang the ???????????????????????? cylindrical hives high in the tree canopy out of reach of marauding honey badgers and army ants, so the wild bee swarms can start building their hexagonal honeycombs undisturbed. ?????? Then, after a couple of years, they return with primitive tools and rather flimsy protection, and shimmy up the trees to harvest the hives. This is a precarious process, and uses traditional smoking techniques to stun the bees whilst the honey is gathered. The work starts at the crack of dawn when the air is cool and the bees are slumbering. The beekeeper rapidly climbs the tree and positions himself under the hive, hoisting up a smouldering bundle of dry leaves and wood. Within seconds the bees are circling with a maddening hum as he puffs wafts of belching smoke into the opening and plunges a forearm deep inside to retrieve the honeycomb. He then quickly hauls up a plastic bucket to collect the precious golden goo, which is still covered in angry wild bees – intent on revenge, but too stupefied to take it. Half the harvest is always left behind for the bees. This raw wild honey remains in its pure natural state until it reaches our shops. Unlike typical European flower honey, the high pollen content – derived from the the many orchids and other wild flowers of the African bush – produces a rich smoky flavour that retains all of its distinctive creaminess and offers many health benefits, including enzymes, antioxidants and bioflavonoids. A TASTE OF Zambia On your visit to Zambia you may have bought an airtight bag of Arabica coffee at the airport shop, or perhaps even sampled some wild forest honey from a roadside stall. But did you know that a taste of Zambia may now be on sale at a supermarket near you? The UK is among several countries where speciality Zambian produce – notably fairtrade honey and responsibly grown coffee – now lines the shelves. Philip Dickson tracked these products to their source. 40 Travel Zambia May 2008 Left: Beehives are made – and carried – in the traditional way. Opposite top: Munali coffee beans are harvested by hand. Opposite below: Harvesting wild honey is strenuous work: first the bee- keeper blows smoke into the hive ( top left), then he removes the comb ( bottom left) and lowers it to the ground ( centre). But the rewards ( right) make it all worthwhile. STEVE BENBOW