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November 2008 Travel Zambia Contents Travel Zambia Edition 4, November 2008 3 Editorial: Stepping out A welcome to Travel Zambia from editor, Mike Unwin. 8 In the frame: Go west Winter on the upper Zambezi, through the lens of Carol Polich. NKANI Meet here for all the latest news and views from around Zambia. 1 4– 17 People Virginia McKenna; bush camp honeymoon; slow train to Tanzania; pilot takes to Zambian skies; bush medicine, and much more... 1 8– 21 1 Habitat African parks; darting a giraffe; giraffe gives birth; mamba surprise; bridge building in Kafue; Luangwa camp- out. 22– 23 Culture Concert band tours Zambia; Lusaka street festival; Oliver Mtukudzi and Johnny Clegg; reader's Zambezi journal; competition. FEATURES 24 Cover story: Making tracks Mike Unwin hits the ground walking and discovers that Zambia's famous on- foot safaris are about more than just big game. 32 Interview: Zambian at heart Celebrated painter David Shepherd talks to Mike Unwin about how Zambia has inspired him, both an artist and a conservationist. 34 Zambia undiscovered: Miombo magic Joseph Schatz explores the trails of Mutinondo Wilderness, and reveals that there's more to the great Zambian outdoors than just safaris. 36 Heritage: Capital gains How would you spend 24 hours in Lusaka? Laura Manni takes the pulse of the nation's capital. 40 Lodge life: I'm a camp manager… get me out of here! Got the gin, got the tonic. Now was there anything else? Anna Devereux Baker offers a survival guide to camp management. 44 Wildlife focus: The dilemmas of a horn Claire Lewis tracks the black rhino's return to North Luangwa. VAKACHA Hit the road with our safari news, travel advice and top visitor tips. 46– 47 Around Zambia: Top birding spots Pete Leonard selects 14 of Zambia's best sites for birdwatchers. 48 Zambia by water The lowdown on the country's waterways. 49 Safari Wheelchair safari, community tour and horse riding in Kafue, plus all the latest safari news. 54 A helping hand Orphanage, school volunteers, charity art competition and other ways to give something back 64 Inside view: Could do better? Chris McIntyre of Expert Africa explains what both thrills and frustrates him about tourism in Zambia. One more for breakfast? The trials of a camp manager 40 MIKE UNWIN Legging it: the best way to see Zambia's wildlife 24 BUSHCAMP COMPANY Them there hills: the magic of Mutinondo 34 STEVE LEONARD