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November 2008 Travel Zambia 23 PeoplePeopleVakachaVakachaHabitatHabitatNkaniNkaniCultureCulture Wildlife at Old Mondoro Levy Farao's quiet, soft charm belies his canny ability to locate wildlife on a drive or a walk, and to know exactly how to maximise the thrill for guests and minimise the irksomeness of human contact for the animals. And if you don't want to leave camp, then the wildlife will come to you. Elephant visit almost daily to munch away at the trees, and even hyena and hippo stroll through at night. Canoeing from Chiawa The canoeing trips are, in my view, the highlight. The hippos and crocodiles you spotted from eagles' view on arrival are now viewed from water level. You travel in blissful quiet listening only to the breeze, your paddles, the currents and the birdsong. Dinner at Chiawa Dinner is announced when the all- male staff gathers to sing in complicated and intriguing harmonies, making you drift to the candlelit tables more metaphorically than physically. The idea is that you feel as though you are being looked after within a family structure – and it works. Reader's Journal View fromom Dowown Under Travel consultant Stephanie Rogers- Julian visited Zambia with her husband Warren for the first time in June this year. She stayed at Chiawa and Old Mondoro camps on the Lower Zambezi and was inspired to record her observations. These were among the highlights. F lying into the Zambezi Valley After soaring over a high escarpment we bank down to a riverine terrace, through which the Zambezi scuds along eastwards. Our slow descent over the curving riverbanks reveals that the dots and dashes we were watching from on high are, in fact, thousands of hippos and crocodiles. Game drive from Old Mondoro It is a landscape that seeps into your psyche. The vegetation is akin to a patchwork quilt that has been pulled apart and draped at random around a room. What you see are knotted vines and thistles, trees, shrubs and glades through which sunlight penetrates the darkest corners. It is this haphazard tapestry that keeps you alert to the possibility of animal sightings at every turn of the vehicle. This enormous baobab looms over a small camp deep in the middle of one of Zambia's finest national parks. By day you hear the peal of children's laughter. By night the roars of the local lion pride take over. Do you think you know where it is ?? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Tell us where in Zambia this picture was taken and you could win one of five copies of Zambia: the Bradt Travel Guide. Send your answer on a postcard to: Zambia Bradt Competition, Travel Zambia magazine, 4 Rycote Lane Farm, Milton Common, Oxford, OX9 2NZ, United Kingdom. Or email your answer to competitions@ travelafricamag. com, putting Zambia Bradt Competition in the subject line. Entries MUST include your full postal address and daytime phone number. Only one entry per household. Entries close on 31 January 2009. GUESS WHERE... And win the Bradt guide to Zambia MIKE UNWIN MIKE UNWIN WARREN JULIAN

Tracks Walking safaris are what Zambia does best. They offer what is, to many, the ultimate safari experience: meeting a lion on foot. But what happens if that lion doesn't show up? Mike Unwin hits the trail with some of Zambia's top guides and discovers there is more to meet in the bush than just big game. making 24 Travel Zambia November 2008