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Breakfast can wait no longer. The traditional Zambian version is maize- meal porridge, with added milk, sugar and ground nuts for those who can afford it, but this dish is not easily available to the passing tourist. For something a little more familiar, try the bacon and eggs at Kilimanjaro in Manda Hill, or nibble a chocolate croissant at La Mimosa in the Arcades shopping plaza – both located along the Great East Road, which also has convenient bureaux de change and internet cafes. Or go the whole hog at one of the big hotels: Southern Sun Ridgeway, along Church Road, offers a fabulous breakfast buffet on a tranquil terrace, where weaverbirds flutter around the lily ponds. Refuelled and refreshed, it's now time to visit a market. At Kabwata Cultural village along Burma Road you can meet the resident woodcarvers, craftsmen and artists selling their goods, which include hand- carved curios, paintings and chitenges ( brightly patterned wraps). Northmead market is less attractive but offers similar handicrafts, along with fresh fruit and veg, and has more scope for bargain- hunters. The adventurous and street- wise could also try City Market, off the Lumumba Road. As a non- Zambian you will certainly stand out here, but you will also get a more authentic glimpse of local life. It may not be the place for hand- carved salad bowls, but there'll be everything else, from traditional medicines to engine parts, bicycle repairs and used clothing. Market or not, a trip down Lumumba Road is well worth it, as the street is teeming with traders of all kinds. Don't be afraid to wind down your window ( keep your valuables close at hand) to check out the goods and discuss prices. A good rule of thumb for haggling is to start by offering 50% of the initial asking price. But in the end you should pay what you think it's worth; if you don't think you've been ripped off, then you haven't been. Indulge in a little retail therapy Lusaka- style at Arcades Sunday market or along Lumumba Road ( right). All pictures by Laura Manni Heritage N ovember 2008 Travel Zambia 37 10: 00 11: 30

By now you'll be ready for lunch. My choice would be to take a trip down Cairo Road – a tree- lined dual carriageway that was once part of Cecil Rhodes' grand colonial vision of a route from Cape to Cairo but is now the city's principal business and retail centre – and then take the Central Park exit. Here, tucked safely away behind the bustle, you'll find The Engineers restaurant. Tell Chef Moses Lukunde that you'd like a taste of Zambia. " Anything is possible," he will probably respond – and, sure enough, the day's menu may feature anything from guinea fowl and poached bream to goat, impala and chibwabwa ( traditional pumpkin leaves with ground nuts). Your main dish will be served with Zambia's staple, nshima ( maize meal), and you will be given a bowl with hot water and lemon juice in which to wash your right hand – the hand used for eating in Zambia. Pull off a bit of nshima, squish it into a ball, and use it to mop up the other items on your dish. It's flavoursome and filling – and all for less than $ 10. With luck, your lunch will have revitalised you for the afternoon, because there's still plenty to do. First stop is the Freedom Statue on Independence Avenue. Unveiled by Kenneth Kaunda to mark the 10th anniversary of independence and honour those who lost their lives in the fight for freedom, this significant landmark features on Zambia's currency ( the kwacha). Nearby, Zambia's charmingly eclectic National Museum offers such oddities as a conch shell believed to possess the power to " jam police tape recorders so that they could not hear anything", and the preserved finger tip of Mr Abel Nchima, shot off by a colonial policeman's rifle. There are also some fascinating insights into the story of Zambia – including a section devoted to witchcraft, which offers advice on divination and how aspiring adulterers can bewitch their mistress' husband. To follow this with something a little more energetic, you could putt your way around The Lusaka Golf Course on Los Angeles Blvd, visit the water theme park Adventure City off Leopard's Hill or go bowling at Arcades, across from the cinema. There's also Munda Wanga Environmental Park ( www. mundawanga. com) off Kafue Road in Chilanga, where the botanical gardens are the perfect setting for an afternoon stroll. 38 Travel Zambia November 2008 1: 30 14: 30 " In Livingstone you meet natural beauty and in South Luangwa you meet the Big Five. But in Lusaka you meet real Zambians, living real lives."