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Deep, dark, and teeming with mystery and intrigue. Who knows what treasures lie waiting, deep in yawning gorges and wild jungles? The Royal Livingstone Hotel invites you to explore these hidden depths on the edge of the world's most powerful force of nature – Victoria Falls. One of the seven natural wonders of the world, this World Heritage site evokes danger, intrigue and breath- taking awe in travellers and locals alike. Sun International invites you to soak up nature's fury by day and indulge in 5- star colonial luxury as the sun sets on this untamed land. For more information, or to make a reservation, call 0870 443 4482 or visit www. thomascook. comHEAR THE ROAR OF ROLLING THUNDER. www. suninternational. com

November 2008 Travel Zambia M waiseni! Welcome to our fourth edition of Travel Zambia. A rustle in the grass; a paw print in the dust; the snort of a panicking impala… There's no more vital way to appreciate Africa's wilderness than to feel it beneath your feet. And no better place to do that than in Zambia. If you are among those who worry that a safari – for all its thrills – can be a rather sedentary activity ( especially given the amount of eating it often involves), then a walking safari offers the ideal opportunity to get off your backside. But, be warned: a walking safari is not simply a big game chase with a list of sightings to tick off. Yes, you might run into any of the usual suspects. But it's not so much about what you see as how you see it. At last you are meeting the wildlife on its own terms. In the process, you discover the secrets of the bush that lie beyond the reach of any vehicle. There's something primal about the experience: an insight into how our species trod the land long before roads existed. Earlier this year I hit the trail myself in three of the country's greatest national parks. Find out in Making Tracks ( p24) how I got on. One animal I didn't meet was a black rhino. Hardly surprising, given that this irascible beast disappeared from Zambia 20 years ago. But a close encounter of the horned kind may soon be back on the agenda: Claire Lewis ( p44) updates us on North Luangwa's pioneering rhino reintroduction programme. Elsewhere in this edition we explore Mutinondo Wilderness ( p34), talk to David Shepherd ( p32), discover Zambia's top birding spots ( p46), peep behind the scenes at a safari lodge ( p40) and take a whistle- stop tour of Lusaka ( p36). And finally, in case you think we've wrung Zambia dry, travel expert Chris McIntyre tells us just why he thinks the country still has more to give. Read his forthright views on p64 and see whether you agree. Mike Unwin, Editor mike@ travelafricamag. com Stepping out TRAVEL ZAMBIA magazine is published by Travel Africa Ltd This edition, Issue 4, was published on November 10, 2008 Travel Africa Ltd 4 Rycote Lane Farm, Milton Common Oxford, OX9 2NZ United Kingdom Tel: + 44 ( 0) 1844 278883 Fax: + 44 ( 0) 1844 278893 Email: zambia@ travelafricamag. com www. travelzambiamag. com www. travelafricamag. com Publisher Craig Rix craig@ travelafricamag. com Editor Mike Unwin mike@ travelafricamag. com Managing Director Iain Wallace Designer Dean Ryan Sales Manager Dave Southwood dave@ travelafricamag. com Publications Manager Phil Clisby phil@ travelafricamag. com Customer Services Sherry Rix zambia@ travelafricamag. com Consultant Nigel Foster Subscriptions For full details please email zambia@ travelafricamag. com Accounts Amanda Gaydon accounts@ travelafricamag. com Contributors Stephen Cunliffe, Anna Devereux Baker, Ron Critall, Craig Doria, Stephen Holder, Pete Leonard, Claire Lewis, Chris McIntyre, Laura Manni, Sara and Andrea Nolli, Carol Polich, Stephanie Rogers- Julian, Joseph Schatz, Juliet Shenton, Lesley Thomson, Dave Wilson. Editorial Enquiries While we welcome editorial contributions, we accept no responsibility for unsolicited proposals and submissions. Please make all editorial- related enquiries by post, including a stamped, self- addressed envelope should you want material returned. Acknowledgements Travel Zambia was conceived from discussions with Jo Pope and Nick Aslin. We are also grateful for the assistance and enthusiasm of Donald Pelekamoyo of the Zambia Tourism Board. On the cover Young lion ( Juliet Shenton). See lions up close with Shenton Safaris ( www. kaingo. com) Editorial Did you enjoy Travel Zambia? What would you like to see in future issues? We welcome all news and views on the magazine and on Zambia in general, and would love to publish your letters. Contact us at: mike@ travelafricamag. com TALK TO US Dr Levy Mwanawasa Travel Zambia magazine would like to offer sincere condolences to the first family and the people of Zambia on the death of president Dr Levy Mwanawasa, who passed away in a Paris hospital on 19 August. " He was a great leader. We all loved him. He did great things," said former President Kenneth Kaunda.