False msafiri habariinspiration FOOD & DRINK Bastakiya Nights Q Al Fahidi St, Bur Dubai Q Tel: + 971 4 353 7772 40 T o discover where the seeds of Dubai’s global ambitions were sown, head to the Creek where, in days past, dhows from Persia and the Middle East offloaded goods into the city’s bustling spice and gold souks. A maze of narrow streets, hemmed in by traditional courtyard houses and windtowers, the Bastakiya conservation area transports you into a bygone era. Early evening – when the light throws the architecture into golden relief – is the perfect time to spend a couple of hours exploring this atmospheric district. And it’s also the best way to work up an appetite for a meal at Bastakiya Nights. Simply decorated with rugs, flickering torches and carved wooden doors, this Emirati restaurant immediately transports you to old- world Arabia. For intimacy, you can ask for one of the 11 private rooms adjoining the central courtyard; otherwise, do as we did and take to the rooftop from where there are distant views of the iconic sail- shaped Burj Arab hotel. Bastakiya Nights is a place to come with an empty stomach. Start with a delicious fruit juice like fresh lemon and mint ( alcohol is not served), then order the set menu. Cream of barley soup, into which you squeeze fresh lime makes for a wholesome starter before the meze arrive. And arrive they do, in abundance. Fortunately the tables are spacious enough to accommodate dish after dish. This is definitely food for sharing: Bedouin- style. Warm sesame- seeded flat breads are served to accompany the smoky allure of mutabbal ( grilled aubergine purée), ‘ zingingly’ fresh tabbouleh salad, herb- flecked labneh and creamy hummous and stuffed vine leaves – all beautifully presented on turquoise earthenware plates. My main course was a grill of lemon and saffron flavoured chicken on a bed of salad and sweet- roasted vegetables, while my companion enjoyed a paprika- laced bean and lamb stew. A real highlight was the dessert menu served on comfy cushions inside a Bedouin tent in the lower courtyard – expertly bruléed crème caramels followed by Arabian dates and cardamon- flavoured coffee in delicate gold- filigreed glasses. Stepping out into the alleys of Bastakiya, I half- expected a camel train to be waiting to carry us home, but instead we hailed one of Dubai’s efficient municipal taxis to whisk us back to the 21st century and our modern 5- Star hotel… Tucked away in old- town Dubai, Bastakiya Nights gives Sarah Monaghan a taste of traditional Arabian cuisine Tasty trio dubai SHAWARMA Shavings of tasty grilled chicken or lamb packed into a salad- filled fresh pitta bread with a herb or tahini topping, this is the ultimate Arabic fastfood. For some of the best Shawarma in Dubai, try Al Mallah in the Satwa district. Al Mallah Q Al Diyafah Street Q Tel: + 971 4 398 4723 FRESH FRUIT JUICE Mango, pineapple, kiwi, papaya, lychee… freshly squeezed fruit juices are hugely popular thanks to Dubai’s hot climate. One of the best al fresco spots to sample them is Ken Zaman Restaurant overlooking Dubai Creek, which also serves traditional Arabic food. Ken Zaman Q Heritage & Dining Village, Shindagha Q Tel: + 971 4 3939913 HAMOUR This local delicacy, also known as rock cod, is fished off the UAE coasts and is a widely served white fish in Dubai. Try it at Pisces, a restaurant offering ocean dining with stylish simplicity that was named Time Out Dubai’s Best Seafood Restaurant in 2008. Pisces Q Madinat Al Jumeirah Q Tel: + 971 4 3666730 ARABIAN BITES Dip in and try ‘ zingingly’ fresh tabbouleh salad at Bastakiya Nights

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