False msafiri is for… Endemic birds A checklist of 1,130 bird species makes Tanzania one of Africa’s great ornithological destinations. First- time safari-goers are invariably enchanted by the country’s more iconic species, like the colourful rollers and weaver birds, and the vultures, eagles and kites that lord the skies. For dedicated twitchers, Tanzania’s biggest draw is the presence of at least 32 national endemics – bird species that are unique to the country. Half a dozen of these Tanzanian ‘ specials’ are quite easily seen on an ordinary safari, including two brightly coloured species of parrot- like lovebirds and the quirky rufous- tailed weaver. The majority, however, are associated with the forests of the Eastern Arc Mountains and Southern Highlands, an area that ranks among Africa’s top birding hotspots. 57 is for… diving and snorkelling The kaleidoscope of colourful fish at places like Mafia and Zanzibar can be seen to breathtaking effect simply by donning a mask and snorkel. For dedicated divers, Tanzania’s reef- fringed coast provides opportunities for encounters with everything from turtles to whale sharks. is for… Festivals and events Tanzania’s tourist calendar is dictated by natural cycles, whether it be monsoon winds or the movements of the Serengeti’s wildebeest. The key cultural event is the Zanzibar International Film Festival ( held on the island in July 2008), while, for more active types, the Kilimanjaro Marathon has been held every June TURTLE: SHUTTERSTOCK

False TANZANIA is for… Hot Air ballooning There’s no finer start to a day in the Serengeti than taking a serene hot- air balloon trip above the wide open plains, watching herds of wildebeest, zebra and buffalo scatter in your shadow, before touching down to a sumptuous champagne breakfast, eaten al fresco wherever the wind has blown you. is for… Great Rift Valley Stretching for 5500km between Arabia and the Zambezi Valley, the Rift Valley formed some 20- 30 million years ago along a pair of fault lines that converge on Tanzania’s southern highlands. Prominent landmarks, like Kilimanjaro and the Ngorongoro Crater, are volcanic by- products of the rifting, which will eventually cause the region to split into two separate land masses. The eastern Rift, which runs through the heart of Tanzania, is nowhere seen to better advantage than on the sheer escarpments that hem in Lakes Manyara and Eyasi. Further north, Lake Natron is overlooked by Africa’s most active volcano, Ol Doinyo Lengai, which last blew its top in 2007 ( pictured right). The flooded western Rift forms the border with the DRC, where it rises in majestic verdancy either side of Lake Tanganyika. is for… Jambo! “ Jambo!” – Swahili for Hello! – you’ll hear this cheerful greeting wherever you travel in Tanzania, often followed by a friendly “ Habari ya safari?” ( How is the trip) or ‘ Karibu!’ ( Welcome!). 58 msafiri EMMA THOMSON