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False msafiri 98 guide business travellers’ of the Kuramo Lagoon to the east. It’s best known for its vast continental and Nigerian all- you- can- eat buffets; come here if you’re hungry. It’s also a good spot to try some traditional Nigerian ‘ starch and soup’. Adetokunbo Ademola Street, Victoria Island, tel: + 234 ( 0) 1 262- 4600, www. ekohotels. com ALSO CONSIDER: Q CURRASCO A Brazilian restaurant where meat is barbecued on an open fire pit, known in Portuguese as a churrasqueria. 1c Ozumba Mbadiwe Avenue, tel: + 234 ( 0) 1 2629961 Q TANJIA Moroccan cuisine in gorgeous decor of giant vases, low wooden tables and velvet cushions. 54 Raymond Njoka Street, Ikoyi, tel: + 234 ( 0) 1 8972117 Q LAGOON Same venue as Currasco ( above); good range of West Africa food, plus some Chinese and Indian dishes. 1c Ozumba Mbadiwe Avenue, tel: + 234 ( 0) 1 2611616 Q COWRIE RESTAURANT In B- Jay’s Hotel; stylish restaurant and bar that is just as happy to serve Nigerian eba & egusi as fish & chips. Tel: + 234 ( 0) 1 2704861, www. bjayshotel. com Q PAT’S PLACE Popular with expats, this bar serves wholesome pub grub like steak and kidney pie. Plot 292c Ajose Adeogun Street, Victoria Island, tel: + 234 ( 0) 1 3200424 TIME OFF Lagos has few sightseeing attractions as such, but it does have atmosphere, so a drive or even a walk for the brave, around the congested streets of Victoria or Lagos islands gives an insight into the frenetic street life. The National Museum on Lagos Island has some interesting displays of traditional art, including some unique bronze and terracotta sculptures, and some exhibits covering Nigeria’s turbulent history under military rule. The best way to escape the city for a few hours is to head for the beach ( see below). IF YOU DO ONE THING, MAKE SURE IT’S... Q TARKWA BAY There are a number of beaches around Lagos but this is the cleanest, and, as the sheltered bay was man- made when they built the entrance to Lagos Harbour, the sea is relatively calm and safe for swimming. Getting here is half the fun, with boats leaving from Victoria Island and passing the massive and impressive oil instillation in Lagos Harbour where tankers get their bellyfull of oil. The beach has sunshades and deck chairs to rent and hawkers do the round with snacks and drinks. It’s a pleasant place to relax for an afternoon. At the western end of the bay is Lighthouse Beach; a magnificent swathe of white sand that is pounded by the surf ( unfortunately not rubbish- free). From here you can see the remarkable sight of literally hundreds of oil tankers waiting out at sea to enter Lagos Harbour. Time to shop There is a good craft and curio market outside the Eko Hotel ( see above), where open- air stalls are crammed with wooden carvings, cloth and leather goods. Alternatively take a taxi a few kilometres east of Victoria Island to the Lekki Peninsular to the sprawling Lekki Market, which has another good craft selection at the back behind all the household goods. Expect to bargain hard at both. The most upmarket shops for West African art are on Awolowo Road in Ikoyi; try Signature ( tel: + 234 ( 0) 1 7760900) at 107 or Quintessence ( www. quintessenceltd. com) at the Falamo Shopping Centre. Also at 168 Awolowo Road is the city’s best bookshop, Jazz Hole ( tel: + 234 ( 0) 1 8953498), which has a fine selection of African literature, coffee table books and Nigerian CDs, plus a coffee shop. They occasionally hold evening concerts of local bands. best buys Wood carvings, masks, drums, pottery, decorated calabashes, bead jewellery, leather goods, bronze statues, clay sculptures, and cloth; notably hand painted adire and batiks and hand woven asa- oke. ABOVE RIGHT: Snake charmer and hawker on Tarkwa Bay Bengt af Geijerstam/ PHOTOLIBRARY. COM Daren Humphrys