Mount Aso smouldering in the centre. To the north- east of the Aso- Kuju National Park, the hot spring resorts of Kurokawa and Yufuin offer a tranquil and relaxing break from sightseeing. OKONOYURYOKAN, KUROKAWA The Okunoyu ryokan is located in the famous Kurokawa valley and receives its copious supply of geothermal waters from the active volcano Kuju, on which it sits. The ryokan is set in lush grounds, adjacent to the Kurokawa River. Just off the main street in Kurokawa, this ryokan's surroundings make it one of the most attractive in the valley. Rooms are traditionally minimalist and the food is sumptuous ryokan cuisine. South Kyushu For those with an interest in Kyushu's turbulent history, the warm and friendly city of Kagoshima is a good place to visit. Birthplace of the famous rebel Saigo Takamori, the city played a key role in the Meiji Restoration and the subsequent Satsuma Rebellion. Kagoshima boasts many historical sites and one of the best gardens in Kyushu at Suizenji. In the middle of the bay, Sakurajima, one of the world's most active volcanoes, spews out smoke and ash with ominous frequency. Just an hour's drive from the city brings you to the heart of Kirishima National Park, where you can hike through the inspiring scenery before relaxing in one of the many onsen resorts that dot the area. Yakushima Island One- fifth of Yakushima island is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are as many as six mountain peaks over 1,800 metres high, including Miyanoura- dake, which at 1,935 metres above sea level is the highest mountain in Kyushu and what gives the island its alternative name of ' Alps of the Ocean' The island is said to have one of the world's highest precipitation rates, with the heaviest rainfall in spring and summer. The main draw is the Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine forest, which is home to the abundant Yaku- sugi cedar trees which gave the island its UNESCO listing in 1994. Some of the cedars are said to date back more than 5,000 years and have been given individual names, such as the oldest cedar, the Jomon- sugi. North Kyushu Nagasaki is Kyushu's best- known city, made infamous on 9th August 1945 as the site of the second atomic bomb. The understated Peace Park and museum are a likely point of interest for every visitor, but Nagasaki's topography mercifully protected the city from being totally destroyed and today it is a vibrant, forward- looking place. The blend of western and Japanese architecture at the Glover Gardens and the foreign enclave of Dejima show what living conditions were like for those original Dutch residents, and the story of Nagasaki's secret Christians displays a darker side of Japan. Travelling across Ariake Bay to Kumamoto brings you to one of the country's finest castles, with its excellent museum and panoramic views. A short drive from here into Kyushu's wild interior is the vast and stunning spread of the world's largest caldera, with volcanic 32 Areial view of Kirishima National Park Nagasaki Peace Park Entrance to the Okunoyu Ryokan

Eastern Shikoku Shikoku is home to some of the nation's most atmospheric festivals, finest gardens and most picturesque coastal scenery. Each August, Tokushima's Awa Odori Festival attracts over a million visitors and is home to the traditional Bunraku form of puppet theatre. Nearby Takamatsu boasts the splendid Ritsurin Gardens, and no more than an hour away by ferry, the world- class art museums and attractive coastal scenery of Naoshima Island can be enjoyed as a day trip. Many of the 88 famous temples that constitute Japan's most celebrated Buddhist pilgrimage are located in the heart of eastern Shikoku and can nowadays be accessed by car, rather than the more arduous task of visiting them all on foot. Head further inland to the Iya Valley where breathtaking mountain scenery awaits, complete with ancient farmhouses, vine bridges crossing precipitous gorges, and some white- water rafting opportunities. Western and Central Shikoku Shikoku's largest city is Matsuyama, home to one of Japan's finest castles, perched on a hilltop with excellent views and a stunning collection of samurai swords and armour. Nearby Dogo Onsen, one of Japan's oldest spa towns, has beautiful public baths that date back to 1894. The craggy western coastline is dotted with quaint fishing villages full of friendly locals and delicious regional cuisine. Further south, Uwajima boasts a fertility shrine, unique in Japan. Kochi Prefecture in the south of the island was once the most rugged and cut- off part of Japan and it is here that many of the most hard to reach temples on the pilgrimage route are located, along with a fine original castle and a bustling Sunday market in the town of Kochi itself. TSUBAKI- KANDOGOONSEN, MATSUYAMA This ryokan style hotel retains elements of traditional Japanese accommodation such as kaiseki dining, traditional breakfasts and futon mattress sleeping arrangements, but also has many convenient western amenities. Being located in the centre of the Dogo Onsen area the baths at the hotel are excellent and truly relaxing. Aside from the hotel facilities there is a fascinating taiko drum show in the lobby on most evenings which is extremely entertaining to watch. www. audleytravel. com/ japan ? 01993 838 210 ? Southern Japan33 Okinawa Naha and the southern end of Okinawa Honto ( the main island) make a good base from which to start your time in the Okinawan island chain. The area directly surrounding Naha has some good nightlife, as well as Shurijo Castle, attractive gardens and plenty to keep children occupied. Many of the resort hotels have excellent beaches with extensive facilities, and to the north of the island you'll find more rugged scenery and a first- class aquarium. A short journey from Naha are the semi- tropical islands of Ishigaki, Miyako and Kurume, offering white sand beaches, diving and snorkelling, coral reefs, jungle walks and various other resort activities. Overseas visitors to these islands are still few and far between, making travel here a little more challenging for non- Japanese speakers but allowing you to experience true Japanese style relaxation. Suizenji Gardens, KumamotoHarvesting potatoes, Iya Valley Sunset over Ishigaki Island, Okinawa Seto- Ohashi Bridge, crossing Inland Sea Dogo Onsen, Matsuyama