www.audleytravel.com/galapagos ?01993 838 635 ?Islands of the Galapagos775386Santa Cruz The highlands of Santa Cruz islandprovide a cool, lush retreat where gianttortoises can be seen in the wild,together with a variety of bird species.Along the northern shores of the islandis Cerro Dragon, which is home to anumber of land iguanas and Las Bachasbeach, where Pacific green turtles laytheir eggs annually. At Black Turtle Covemangrove edged lagoons are home toturtles, rays and even sharks in theshallow waters. The most populated ofall the Galapagos islands, Santa Cruz'smain town of Puerto Ayora has anumber of hotels and is home to theCharles Darwin Research Station, theworld renowned giant tortoise breeding centre.7GenovesaThe sail into Darwin Bay on Genovesa is impressive, as it sits in a partiallysubmerged volcanic caldera. The mainattraction of the island is the red-footedbooby, as this one of the few places inthe Galapagos it can be seen. Otherbirds here include frigate birds, gulls,tropic birds, storm petrels and short-eared owls. Off the west coast of theisland it is common to watch sea lionsplaying and surfing in the Pacific waves.North Seymour6One of the richest central islands interms of birdlife, with a large populationof frigate birds, blue-footed boobies andgulls. North Seymour also has its ownpopulation of land iguanas and thewestern shores are home to sea lionsand marine iguanas.5Blue-footed boobiesRed-footed boobyGiant tortoiseWaved albatrossEspañolaIn the far southeast of the archipelago,Española is the only island on which thewaved albatross can be seen (betweenApril and November). Punta Suárez ishome to a variety of other birdsincluding frigate birds, blue-footed andNazca boobies, gulls and Galapagoshawks, as well as giant tortoises and aunique species of marine iguana with itsred and green colourings. At GardnerBay, on the opposite side of the island,one of the archipelago's largestpopulation of sea lions bask on thestunning white-sand beach.8

BirdsIt is not necessary to be an experienced twitcherto appreciate and enjoy the incredible diversityof birdlife in the Galapagos. Depending on thetime of year and the particular island you arevisiting, you will have unique opportunities to observe and photograph rare and endemic bird species and can hope to be treated tospectacular displays of courtship as well asfeeding and nesting at very close quarters. Herewe choose some of the highlights.Waved albatrossThe largest bird inhabiting the Galapagos, thewaved albatross, has an incredible 2.4 metrewing span. The albatross arrives on Españolaisland (the only one on which it can be seen)around April, and its intricate mating dances can be observed from then through to July.Albatross chicks are present until approximatelyNovember when they fledge and venture todistant Asian coastlines, before returning thefollowing April.Galapagos penguinBrought to the island by the cool Humboldtcurrent from Antarctica, the Galapagos penguinis one of the smallest species in the penguinfamily, growing to just 30 centimetres tall. Most active between May and October, andtypically surfacing in the early morning, they liveand breed on Isabela and Fernandina islands, butcan also be seen at the base of Pinnacle Rockon Bartolomé.Flightless cormorantThe largest of all cormorants and arguably theembodiment of Darwin's evolution theories, thisbird has lost the ability to fly as a result of thelack of natural predators and the need to adaptto fishing. Rather comically, it will spread itswings as if it is about to take off into the airbefore diving into the water to hunt. Thesecormorants are only found on the westernislands of Fernandina and Isabela, but areregularly observed here year-round, withcourtship usually taking place around July.Red-footed boobyThe red-footed booby is the smallest of the three booby species on the Galapagos and theonly one that is known to nest in trees. Lightbrown in colour, save for those vivid and easilyidentifiable feet, these birds are only seen onGenovesa and the eastern tip of San Cristóbalisland. The breeding cycle can be year-roundand is primarily driven by the availability of food.The Galapagos is a truly special place, both forscientists and travellers. As the islands havenever been connected with the mainland theyare home to innumerable endemic species ofwildlife and plants, many of which are evenunique to just one island. One of the foremostattractions of the islands for visitors is thefearlessness of the animals, thanks to theirrelative lack of exposure to predators, enablingyou to enjoy one of your closest everencounters with nature. Wildlife8Flightless cormorantBlue-footed booby