Permits Permits must be obtained to visit the gorillasand, as only eight are granted per gorilla groupeach day, they are extremely limited. We willsecure permits for you as far in advance aspossible and at least four months before youintend to travel. The permits currently costaround US$500 per person, which entitles you to one hour with the mountain gorillas. This money goes towards conservation of thehabitat, anti-poaching efforts and education ofthe local communities.Trekking and clothingGorillas live in montane forest and treks to seethem are at altitude and pass through variedvegetation and terrain. You will need areasonable level of fitness and a willingness toclamber up muddy slopes and through thickgrowth. When setting out you should expect to get muddy and rained on, so a waterproofjacket is essential. The exertion will keep youwarm, so layers are best. We have found it agood idea to wear long trousers to protect your legs against nettles, and a T-shirt with along-sleeved shirt over the top. A waterproofeddaypack is essential for your camera, waterbottle and snacks. For a small fee, porters canbe hired to carry your daypack and help you up the steeper slopes.Rwanda or Uganda?There are two main locations in which to viewthe mountain gorillas, the Volcanoes NationalPark in Rwanda or the Bwindi ImpenetrableForest in Uganda. In each place, a number ofgroups are habituated but the experience doesdiffer significantly. Here is a guide to each, tohelp you select where you would like to go inorder to see these fabulous animals.There are only 700 mountain gorillas remainingon earth. The majority live in the VirungaMountains that straddle Rwanda, Uganda andthe Democratic Republic of Congo whilst asmaller number live in the Bwindi ImpenetrableForest of Uganda. Hunted and pushed out oftheir dwindling habitat, the montane forest isnow heavily protected. Most of the 700individuals live a wild existence, far from humanreach. However, a handful of groups have beenhabituated and can be tracked and observed bysmall numbers of visitors under the watchfuleyes of park scouts.Tracking mountain gorillas is one of Africa'sgreatest wildlife adventures. After scrambling upmuddy paths and crawling through vegetationtunnels, the first sight of a mountain gorilla takesyour breath away. They observe you from nestsin the misty trees and you realise that you arenow guests in their world. Crouching low in thedripping vegetation, you can watch silverbackscrunching on wild celery and nettles, youngsterschasing each other around clearings, and babiesleaping from low branches before beingscooped up by their mothers. Looking deep intothe eyes of a gorilla sends a shiver down yourspine, an experience you will never forget.Gorilla tracking108Young gorilla eating a nettleTrekking in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

Rwanda is a much smaller country than Uganda,so lends itself better to a short trip incombination with a safari or beach stayelsewhere in East Africa. The VolcanoesNational Park is only two hours' drive on tarmacroad from Kigali and the international airport.For one visit to the gorillas, you will need aminimum of two nights' stay, and three nightswould be ideal. Rwanda has more than twicethe number of habituated mountain gorillagroups than Uganda and so permits aregenerally more easily available.Rwanda gorilla groupsThere are currently seven main groups that can be tracked in Rwanda; the Susa, Sabinyo,Amahoro, Umubano, Hirwa, Kwitonda andGroup Thirteen. The groups vary in numberfrom around 9 to 39 individuals and all currentlyhave at least one silverback male. Of the sevengroups, there are a couple that tend to befound on the saddle between Mount Sabyinyoand Mount Gahinga which is around a two hourwalk from the park entrance. Whilst it is notpossible to book a permit for a specific group,your chances of having a shorter walk are higherthan in Uganda. Nothing is guaranteed thoughand you may find yourself tracking a group suchas the Susa, first studied by Diane Fossey andoften found on the slopes of Mount Visoke, afive hour hike away.RwandaGorilla tracking109Uganda is a larger country to explore thanRwanda, and it takes two long days of driving to reach the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest fromEntebbe, broken up with an overnight stayhalfway at Lake Mburo. Once at Bwindi wewould recommend three nights beforecontinuing your safari around Uganda.Uganda gorilla groupsThere are four habituated gorilla groups inBwindi and none tend to be found near to thepark entrance. The groups are called theMubare, Habinyanja, Rushegura and Nkuringoand range in size from 10 to 20 individuals, each with one or two silverbacks. The terrain in Bwindi means that you sometimes start yourtrek at the top of the hills, descend on foot intothe valley to see the gorillas, and then climb upthe slopes at the end of the day, which can bemore arduous. In short, Uganda tends to be aharder option than Rwanda.UgandaSABYINYOSILVERBACKLODGE,VOLCANOESNATIONALPARKThis is our favourite lodge in Rwanda, and haseight cottages perched on the lower slopes ofthe mighty Sabyinyo Volcano. As this is acommunity lodge, your stay contributes directlyto the local village's health and educationprojects. With spectacular views over the chainof volcanoes, spacious cottages where fires arelit before your return from a day's trekking, andhot baths to soak your weary limbs, this is awonderful base from which to explore.BUHOMALODGE, BWINDIIMPENETRABLEFORESTSurrounded by the sights and sounds of theBwindi Impenetrable Forest, Buhoma Lodge is a small, friendly lodge only five minutes' walkfrom the park headquarters where you startyour gorilla trekking. Built on the hillside, each of the eight cottages has a private balconyoverlooking the forest canopy. This is a rusticand charming lodge with friendly staff, tastyhome-cooked meals and stunning views.Breakfast at SabyinyoBuhoma LodgeGorillas in nests in the Virunga MountainsGorilla in the Virunga MountainsYoung gorilla