Rwanda is a much smaller country than Uganda,so lends itself better to a short trip incombination with a safari or beach stayelsewhere in East Africa. The VolcanoesNational Park is only two hours' drive on tarmacroad from Kigali and the international airport.For one visit to the gorillas, you will need aminimum of two nights' stay, and three nightswould be ideal. Rwanda has more than twicethe number of habituated mountain gorillagroups than Uganda and so permits aregenerally more easily available.Rwanda gorilla groupsThere are currently seven main groups that can be tracked in Rwanda; the Susa, Sabinyo,Amahoro, Umubano, Hirwa, Kwitonda andGroup Thirteen. The groups vary in numberfrom around 9 to 39 individuals and all currentlyhave at least one silverback male. Of the sevengroups, there are a couple that tend to befound on the saddle between Mount Sabyinyoand Mount Gahinga which is around a two hourwalk from the park entrance. Whilst it is notpossible to book a permit for a specific group,your chances of having a shorter walk are higherthan in Uganda. Nothing is guaranteed thoughand you may find yourself tracking a group suchas the Susa, first studied by Diane Fossey andoften found on the slopes of Mount Visoke, afive hour hike away.RwandaGorilla tracking109Uganda is a larger country to explore thanRwanda, and it takes two long days of driving to reach the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest fromEntebbe, broken up with an overnight stayhalfway at Lake Mburo. Once at Bwindi wewould recommend three nights beforecontinuing your safari around Uganda.Uganda gorilla groupsThere are four habituated gorilla groups inBwindi and none tend to be found near to thepark entrance. The groups are called theMubare, Habinyanja, Rushegura and Nkuringoand range in size from 10 to 20 individuals, each with one or two silverbacks. The terrain in Bwindi means that you sometimes start yourtrek at the top of the hills, descend on foot intothe valley to see the gorillas, and then climb upthe slopes at the end of the day, which can bemore arduous. In short, Uganda tends to be aharder option than Rwanda.UgandaSABYINYOSILVERBACKLODGE,VOLCANOESNATIONALPARKThis is our favourite lodge in Rwanda, and haseight cottages perched on the lower slopes ofthe mighty Sabyinyo Volcano. As this is acommunity lodge, your stay contributes directlyto the local village's health and educationprojects. With spectacular views over the chainof volcanoes, spacious cottages where fires arelit before your return from a day's trekking, andhot baths to soak your weary limbs, this is awonderful base from which to explore.BUHOMALODGE, BWINDIIMPENETRABLEFORESTSurrounded by the sights and sounds of theBwindi Impenetrable Forest, Buhoma Lodge is a small, friendly lodge only five minutes' walkfrom the park headquarters where you startyour gorilla trekking. Built on the hillside, each of the eight cottages has a private balconyoverlooking the forest canopy. This is a rusticand charming lodge with friendly staff, tastyhome-cooked meals and stunning views.Breakfast at SabyinyoBuhoma LodgeGorillas in nests in the Virunga MountainsGorilla in the Virunga MountainsYoung gorilla

110RwandaVolcanoes National ParkHome to mountain gorillas andgolden monkeys.Lake KivuA beautiful lake whose sandyshores are perfect for relaxationafter gorilla tracking.211234Located in the heart of East Africa, Rwanda is one of the continent'ssmallest and most beautiful countries.The main attraction is provided bythe mountain gorillas in the VirungaMountains but the country has somuch more to offer. Rwanda's scenerycomprises rolling hills covered in apatchwork quilt of fields, the expanseof Lake Kivu and the lush montanevegetation of Nyungwe Forest. Thehorrors of the genocide in 1994affected every family and memorialsare seen throughout the country, butthe nation has repaired itself and isan astonishingly welcoming andfriendly place to visit. The sense ofcommunity is overwhelming; on themonthly volunteering day, even thePresident helps to sweep the streetsand clear litter, making Kigali one of Africa's cleanest capital cities! Local boy at the Kings PalaceGisozi GenocideMemorialThe museum in Kigali dedicatedto the 1994 genocide.Nyungwe ForestHome to chimpanzees, black and white colobus monkeys anda profusion of birdlife.43The outskirts of KigaliVillage scenery between Kigali and RuhengeriMountain gorilla