MASOALAFORESTCAMP,MASOALANATIONALPARKMasoala Forest Camp is built on a golden-sandbeach where the rainforest meets the sea. Thereare five tents on raised platforms, each with ahammock where you can relax on hot afternoons,watching the birds and geckos. The chef, Estrina,is particularly good, conjuring up wonderful mealsusing fresh, local ingredients. Activity optionsinclude wildlife walks in the rainforest, snorkellingand kayaking along the coast.Nosy MangabeNosy Mangabe is a small island located inAntongil Bay two kilometres offshore fromMaroantsetra. The island has a rich history ofpiracy, and as you arrive by boat, it looks exactlylike a pirates' hang-out. Dense vegetation dropsto large boulders and hidden coves - one ofwhich has a rusty shipwreck emerging from theshallows. The island is a rainforest reserve andsanctuary for the endangered aye-aye which wasintroduced in 1966. This is the best place inMadagascar to see these fascinating creatures andan overnight stay is recommended to give youthe chance to search by torchlight. Other lemurson the island include black and white ruffedlemur, white-fronted brown lemur and the brownmouse lemur. As there is no accommodation onthe island, the only way to stay overnight is tocamp, and as paths through the forest can besteep, it's a place for keen walkers.CAMPINGSAUVAGE, NOSYMANGABEThe camping on Nosy Mangabe is referred to as camping sauvage and this is an accuratedescription. You will stay in simple dome tents ona rudimentary campsite that has only the mostbasic washing facilities. Whilst the camping is wild,the experience is wonderful. At night, the forestrings with the calls of frogs and at dawn, anatmospheric mist hangs over the trees.Masoala National ParkMasoala National Park is Madagascar's largest park and one of its least visited. Primary rainforestcovers a range of mountains and drops down tothe deserted beaches of Antongil Bay wherehumpback whales come to breed and calve. TheMasoala rainforest is beautiful, with tall palisandertrees, vines, wild ginger plants, ferns and orchids.Chameleons are easily found: the mostcommonly-seen species include the pantherchameleon, hooded chameleon and severalspecies of stump-tailed chameleon. Masoala is the last refuge of the red-ruffed lemur, who youwill often see sunning on the tops of trees in themorning. At night, eastern woolly lemurs canfrequently be seen sitting in the tree forks, andwhite-fronted brown lemur, brown mouse lemurand the aye-aye are also resident. On the grounda surprising number of lowland streaked tenrecs(small hedgehog-like creatures) rustle through thevegetation in their endless search for insects.120Red-ruffed lemurTree boaMasoala Forest CampCamping on Nosy Mangabe

Amber Mountain National ParkAmber Mountain National Park is situated in thefar north of Madagascar, 40 kilometres south ofDiego Suarez. Whilst Diego can be hot and dry,Amber Mountain is always cool and fresh withmists hanging over the huge strangler figs, quinine trees and enormous birds-nest ferns. Even non-birders are amazed by the spectacularspecies found here, including the Madagascarcrested ibis and the paradise flycatcher, with itslong trailing tail feathers. The park is rewarding for walkers, with severalbeautiful trails threading through the forest. Two trails lead to waterfalls, the Cascaded'Antomboka and the Cascade Sacrée. On footyou have the chance to discover all the smallerwildlife such as the leaf-mimic chameleons, treeboas, leaf-tailed geckos, butterflies and pillmillipedes which curl up into perfect balls. Thereare seven lemur species in the park, including the crowned lemur and Sanford's brown lemur,and hikers usually see at least one if not two ofthe diurnal species. There is no accommodationin the Amber Mountain National Park itself, butthe nearby village of Joffreville offers a flavour ofrural Malagasy life and is a good base from which to explore.THELITCHITREE, JOFFREVILLEIn 2007 a young Frenchman called Hervé Dumelbegan renovating the old Admiral's House whichhad stood empty for years on a hill overlookingJoffreville. Hervé lovingly restored it to its formerglory and turned it into an upmarket boutiquehotel. Grand stairs lead up to the house and intoan elegant dining area, library and lounge. At theback of the house, the stable blocks have beenconverted into bedrooms. With lots of characterand good food this is an enjoyable place to stay.NATURELODGE, JOFFREVILLENature Lodge is located on a hill two kilometressouth of Joffreville, centred around a restaurantthat serves local food, and a small sociable bar.Accommodation is in 12 simple thatched chaletsmade from local wood, each with a deck that isperfect for taking in the superb views of DiegoSuarez and the Indian Ocean beyond.www.audleytravel.com/madagascar ?01993 838 585 ?Madagascar121Ankarana Special ReserveAnkarana is a four hour drive from AmberMountain and is one of the best places inMadagascar to see limestone tsingy. The tsingyrises up from deciduous forest and although a few tiny succulent plants cling to the rocks, they are largely bare and spiky. A few pathwayswind through the tsingy, and hiking is challengingbut rewarding, with some spectacular views.Several caves stretch for miles into the rocks and are inhabited by colonies of hundreds of bats. Walking in the caves, you'll see twistedlimestone formations glint in the torchlight. The deciduous forest is home to crowned andSanford's brown lemurs. Two nocturnal lemurs;the grey mouse lemur and the northern sportive lemur are also present.Tsingy at AnkaranaThe Cascade Sacree Waterfall, Amber MountainFemale panther chameleonTomato frogCrowned lemurNature Lodge