Amber Mountain National ParkAmber Mountain National Park is situated in thefar north of Madagascar, 40 kilometres south ofDiego Suarez. Whilst Diego can be hot and dry,Amber Mountain is always cool and fresh withmists hanging over the huge strangler figs, quinine trees and enormous birds-nest ferns. Even non-birders are amazed by the spectacularspecies found here, including the Madagascarcrested ibis and the paradise flycatcher, with itslong trailing tail feathers. The park is rewarding for walkers, with severalbeautiful trails threading through the forest. Two trails lead to waterfalls, the Cascaded'Antomboka and the Cascade Sacrée. On footyou have the chance to discover all the smallerwildlife such as the leaf-mimic chameleons, treeboas, leaf-tailed geckos, butterflies and pillmillipedes which curl up into perfect balls. Thereare seven lemur species in the park, including the crowned lemur and Sanford's brown lemur,and hikers usually see at least one if not two ofthe diurnal species. There is no accommodationin the Amber Mountain National Park itself, butthe nearby village of Joffreville offers a flavour ofrural Malagasy life and is a good base from which to explore.THELITCHITREE, JOFFREVILLEIn 2007 a young Frenchman called Hervé Dumelbegan renovating the old Admiral's House whichhad stood empty for years on a hill overlookingJoffreville. Hervé lovingly restored it to its formerglory and turned it into an upmarket boutiquehotel. Grand stairs lead up to the house and intoan elegant dining area, library and lounge. At theback of the house, the stable blocks have beenconverted into bedrooms. With lots of characterand good food this is an enjoyable place to stay.NATURELODGE, JOFFREVILLENature Lodge is located on a hill two kilometressouth of Joffreville, centred around a restaurantthat serves local food, and a small sociable bar.Accommodation is in 12 simple thatched chaletsmade from local wood, each with a deck that isperfect for taking in the superb views of DiegoSuarez and the Indian Ocean beyond.www.audleytravel.com/madagascar ?01993 838 585 ?Madagascar121Ankarana Special ReserveAnkarana is a four hour drive from AmberMountain and is one of the best places inMadagascar to see limestone tsingy. The tsingyrises up from deciduous forest and although a few tiny succulent plants cling to the rocks, they are largely bare and spiky. A few pathwayswind through the tsingy, and hiking is challengingbut rewarding, with some spectacular views.Several caves stretch for miles into the rocks and are inhabited by colonies of hundreds of bats. Walking in the caves, you'll see twistedlimestone formations glint in the torchlight. The deciduous forest is home to crowned andSanford's brown lemurs. Two nocturnal lemurs;the grey mouse lemur and the northern sportive lemur are also present.Tsingy at AnkaranaThe Cascade Sacree Waterfall, Amber MountainFemale panther chameleonTomato frogCrowned lemurNature Lodge

Madagascar's beachesMadagascar is fringed by sandy beaches and anumber of beautiful islands. Some, such as NosyBe, are well known and others, such as Ile SainteMarie, Nosy Komba, Tsarabanjina and theRadama Islands, are lesser known and muchsleepier. Here, it is easy to find deserted beacheswith soft sand and clear water. Hermit crabsscuttle through the dense undergrowth at theback of the beaches and - particularly in thenorth - frigate birds can be seen soaringoverhead. Many of the islands have villages on or nearby them and you become accustomed tothe daily sight of fishermen paddling woodenpirogues, or dhows sailing past, often so filled with thatching palms, grain and cows that theyfloat just inches above the water.The islands are easy to access and could not bemore ideal for relaxation after some strenuoushiking in the rainforest. Nothing is better thanhanging up your hiking boots and sinking yourtoes into warm sand. Days can be spentsnorkelling, diving, pottering around on a bicycleor just snoozing in a hammock. 122The beach at Tsarabanjina IslandPirogue off Ile Ste-MarieChilli peppers at the local marketLocal girl on Nosy Komba