Madagascar's beachesMadagascar is fringed by sandy beaches and anumber of beautiful islands. Some, such as NosyBe, are well known and others, such as Ile SainteMarie, Nosy Komba, Tsarabanjina and theRadama Islands, are lesser known and muchsleepier. Here, it is easy to find deserted beacheswith soft sand and clear water. Hermit crabsscuttle through the dense undergrowth at theback of the beaches and - particularly in thenorth - frigate birds can be seen soaringoverhead. Many of the islands have villages on or nearby them and you become accustomed tothe daily sight of fishermen paddling woodenpirogues, or dhows sailing past, often so filled with thatching palms, grain and cows that theyfloat just inches above the water.The islands are easy to access and could not bemore ideal for relaxation after some strenuoushiking in the rainforest. Nothing is better thanhanging up your hiking boots and sinking yourtoes into warm sand. Days can be spentsnorkelling, diving, pottering around on a bicycleor just snoozing in a hammock. 122The beach at Tsarabanjina IslandPirogue off Ile Ste-MarieChilli peppers at the local marketLocal girl on Nosy Komba

Ile Sainte MarieIle Sainte Marie is a sleepy island off Madagascar'snortheast coast, ringed by deserted beaches with soft sand and palm trees, traditional fishingvillages, and just a handful of small lodges. Theisland is renowned for its seafood and is the bestplace in Madagascar to eat crab. If you are braveyou can also sample the island tipple - coconutmilk enlivened by a large measure of Pastis.Ile Sainte Marie is about 60 kilometres long andfive kilometres wide and has a colourful history:through the 17th and 18th centuries it was apopular base for the Indian Ocean's pirates. It hasjust one town, Ambodifotatra, with a couple ofcafés, a large church and a busy market.Numerous villages dotted around the island havebamboo huts, fat ducks crossing the road andgeese swimming in rainfilled potholes. Mango,clove, cinammon and breadfruit trees line roadsthat are never far from the beach. If you cyclethrough the villages in the evening, you will smellthe food being cooked, hear music playing fromthe radios, and there is often a group of menplaying boules under a tree in Volihava village.Ile Sainte Marie can be visited from April rightthrough until December, but is particularlyrewarding from July to September when groupsof humpback whales come to breed and calve inthe calm waters of the Indian Ocean. The clovesare harvested in November and the mangos andlitchis come into season in December: only themonths of January to March are marred by thecyclone season. With all these enticing featuresjust a short flight from Antananarivo, it issurprising that this island has remained sothoroughly unspoiled.PRINCESSEBORALODGE, ILESAINTEMARIEPrincesse Bora Lodge is situated in a grove ofpalm trees on the south-west side of the island.The beach has white sand shelving into asheltered lagoon and faces west, ideal forspectacular sunsets. Accommodation is in 20 villaswith decks and hammocks, there is an infinitypool and a dining room serving good French andMalagasy cuisine. The lodge is particularly pretty at night when it is lit by paraffin lanterns.BORAHAVILLAS, ILESAINTEMARIEBoraha Villas is a small lodge located on a hilltopon the east coast of the island. The 13 bungalowshave hammocks and ocean views. The lodge iswell known for its food and the crab is aspeciality. You can eat in the dining room or,better still, on the end of the jetty, surrounded bythe clear turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. www.audleytravel.com/madagascar ?01993 838 585 ?Madagascar123A villa at Princesse Bora LodgeLa Crique Beach, Ile Ste MarieThe jetty at Boraha VillasBoraha Villas