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MWAGUSICAMP, RUAHANATIONALPARKMwagusi Camp is a small tented camp on thebanks of the dry Mwagusi River. Owned and runby naturalist Chris Fox, this camp is comfortablebut the focus is not on frills and luxury. Chris'spassion is for wildlife and this is what this camp isall about - it's ideal for experienced safari handsand animal enthusiasts. The nine tents are shadedby thatch and have beds, nets, en suite bathroomsand verandas with comfy chairs. It is lovely sittingon your veranda and watching the birds hoppingabout in the trees above you. Activities are wellorganised at Mwagusi with both guides andspotters on the game viewing vehicles, and guiding of a high standard.KWIHALA, RUAHANATIONALPARKKwihala offers luxury in Ruaha, and has six spacious safari tents. There are plenty of charmingsmall touches in the tents, from the hand-printedbaobab bedspreads to beaded door handles.Outside, a covered veranda area is insect-proofedand protected from the elements by a fly sheet.The spacious mess tent is the main social centre ofthe camp. Separate dining and relaxing areas createa homely feel although canvas walls and open sidesleave you with no doubt that you're in the bush.With good guides this camp is ideal for thoselooking to explore Ruaha from a comfortable base.The Ruaha National ParkIn the heart of southern Tanzania, the RuahaNational Park has a hot dry climate and dramatic scenery. The Ruaha River runs along the park's southeast border, tumbling overboulders and flanked by riparian woodland. Lioncan be seen stretched out in the sun on thesandbanks, elephant drink from the water. Flocks of yellow-collared lovebirds swoop frombush to bush. Game is prolific with manyungulates present, including impala, waterbuck,bushbuck, giraffe, zebra and buffalo. Both greaterand lesser kudu are here, as are roan and sableantelope. There are large prides of lion, spottedand striped hyena, several packs of wild dog, andleopard. The birdlife is particularly colourful and it is not unusual to spot many species while sitting in camp, such as emerald spotted doves,brown parrots and crested barbets. Activities inRuaha focus on game drives although walking is also possible.82Zebra on the plainsMDONYAOLDRIVERCAMP,RUAHANATIONALPARKThis wild camp has 11 tents situated undersycamore fig and acacia trees. With no electricity,it has the feel of an original safari camp, and is litat night by candles, paraffin lamps and a camp fire.The dining and lounge tents overlook a dry riverbed which acts as a busy wildlife corridor. Thereare currently two prides of lion living close tocamp which can often be heard at night - thiscamp is not therefore suited to nervous travellers.Mwagusi CampKwihalaMdonya Old River Camp Katavi National ParkDeep in western Tanzania, the Katavi NationalPark is extremely wild. Arriving by light aircraft,you'll pass over the Katasunga Plains beforelanding. Spread out before you are yellowgrasslands covered with thousands of zebra, topi, buffalo and giraffe. Lions lie on the fringes,watching and waiting, shaded by mahogany trees.With only two tiny camps in a million acres,Katavi sees few visitors and you can have animmense wilderness all to yourself. Katavi is aclassic dry season reserve. From June to October,buffalo herds of up to 3,000 graze on the plains.Game drives offer superb photographicopportunities whilst walks beside sluggish riversare exciting, with large crocodiles hiding inmudholes. As the sun falls low in the sky, a visit to the hippo pool, where 600 hippos live, isperfect for a sundowner.CHADACAMP, KATAVINATIONALPARKChada Camp is hidden by sausage trees andoverlooks the plains. The six safari tents have highbeds, simple furniture and are decked with brightEast African fabrics. Outside each, there is asimple tin basin and small washstand. A little waybehind each tent is a private bathroom, made ofreed, sticks and soft grass. The main dining area is under canvas and strewn with books, maps,seedpods and a big chest full of drinks. Notfenced, it's wonderfully wild and old-fashioned.Accompanied by top guides, both walks anddrives are excellent.Mahale Mountains ParkShadowing the dusky blue waters of LakeTanganyika, the Mahale Mountains are dramaticand imposing. Jagged peaks of over 2,000 metressoar into the clouds and are covered in canopywoodland and thick montane forest. Shafts ofsunlight pour through the trees into tiny gullieswhere pink and yellow butterflies flit and you cansee each and every pebble in the crystal clearstreams. The Mahale Mountains are the best place in Africa in which to track and observe wildchimpanzees. There is a population of around1,000; one troop of which, the Mimikire clan(around 70-100 individuals), have been habituatedto humans and can be tracked and observed fromclose quarters. Climbing up the leafy tracks in thewww.audleytravel.com/tanzania ?01993 838 545 ?Tanzania83misty morning and hearing your first chimpanzeeshriek is something you will never forget.Crouching low, you can watch them grooming,drinking and playing. After a morning ofchimpanzee tracking you return to the shores ofLake Tanganyika, where sugar-white beaches slopeinto gin-clear waters. There are over 500 speciesof cichlid fish in the lake, and snorkelling andfloating amongst them is the ultimate in relaxation.GREYSTOKECAMP, MAHALEMOUNTAINSGreystoke Camp is situated on an idyllic whitebeach on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. Creamsafari tents under palms have deep chairs, comfybeds, tin washbasins and buckets for washing thesand off your feet. At sunrise your breakfast iscooked over a fire on the beach, after whichtrackers lead you into the forest in search ofchimpanzees. In the afternoons you can snorkelfrom the camp's beautiful dhow or enjoy a snooze on the warm deck.Chada CampThe dining room at Greystoke CampChimpanzee with baby in the Mahale Mountains |