Stone Town, ZanzibarFlanked on two sides by the sea, Stone Town is a place that divides opinion. Many are enchantedby the heavily laden dhows that sail in and out of port, and the tall crumbling buildings andlabyrinthine streets lined with tiny shops. Othersdislike the bustle of so many people, the dirt,noise and commotion. Whatever your opinion, itis likely to be a strong one - Stone Town leavesnobody ambivalent. Much of the town was builtin the 19th century and remains unchanged tothis day. A maze of alleyways lead between tallhouses and palaces whose intricately carvedwooden doors have brass studs and heavy locks.There is no room for cars in these streets soexploring is done on foot. There is plenty to see,from museums to the early morning marketwhich is as busy as it is colourful. Hessian sacksoverflow with black pepper, turmeric, cinnamonand vanilla and traders sell everything from freshginger to huge fish. At the end of the day, youmight choose to stroll to the Forodhani Gardens.As the sun sets, street vendors light fires andbraziers, on which they grill squid, octopus andlobster. Enjoy a snack or two before heading offto one of Stone Town's excellent restaurants.ZANZIBARPALACEHOTEL,STONETOWNTucked away in the Kiponda area of Stone Town this hotel is in a beautifully restoredZanzibari house. Owners Co and Frans aim toprovide a personal service, getting to know guests themselves and making sure they are welllooked after. Each of the nine bedrooms has itsown character, but all are decorated in Swahilistyle. Carved dark wood, stained glass, and jewel-coloured drapes are dotted around thehotel, giving it a modern-day Arabian Nights feel.The hotel is close to the main shopping streetsand is within easy walking distance of some good local restaurants.BEITALCHAI, STONETOWNBeit Al Chai has been sympathetically convertedfrom its original use as a Swahili teahouse. It islocated on a corner in Stone Town's pretty KeleleSquare which is shaded by hibiscus and tamarindtrees and is a peaceful spot. The hotel has six ensuite bedrooms furnished with antiques datingback to the days of the Swahili Empire. There is asmall breakfast courtyard, and drinks are availablein the living room. If your feet are too tired fromexploring to go out for dinner, the hotel has anew restaurant with an Arabic theme, offering anupmarket dining experience.www.audleytravel.com/tanzania ?01993 838 545 ?Tanzania87SERENAINN, STONETOWNThe Serena occupies a prime location perchedbetween the town and the sea. It is an attractivebuilding converted from the old doctor's house.There are polished marble floors, sweepingstaircases, a lovely seaview restaurant and bigswimming pool. The rooms are comfortable withair-conditioning, en suite bathrooms and largebalconies. At sunset, dhows frequently sail pastthe hotel.Room at The Serena InnBeit al ChaiFresh nutmegArabica Room at the Zanzibar Palace HotelZanzibari doorStone Town from the sea

FUNDULAGOON, PEMBAISLANDFundu Lagoon is a stylish property that is ideal for honeymooners looking for a quiet hideaway.Situated on a long beach flanked by mangrove, ithas a large jetty stretching over the water with abar halfway along it. There are eighteen designertents, set under makuti roofs on wooden decks.The rooms have stylish décor and en suitebathrooms with a selection of aromatherapysoaps and lotions. Fundu's main areas are all builtunder thatch and are large and airy, overlookingthe sea. There is a dive centre, small spa andinfinity pool on the hillside with spectacular views over the coast.MANTARESORT, PEMBAISLANDManta Resort is situated on the northern tip ofPemba on arguably its best beach. It is a stylish,20 bedroom property set in pretty gardens. Thebest rooms overlook the sea and have large airybedrooms leading onto sunny verandas. This is awonderful place to relax, either with an ice colddrink in the heat of the day or a glass of wine atnight. In the centre of the resort, a small spaoffers relaxing treatments and the good sizedpool is ideal for relaxing beside with a book.There are plenty of activities including diving,snorkelling and dhow sailing. As the sun sets youcan make your way to the quirky beach bar onthe sand for a cocktail before dinner.Pemba IslandAbout 80 kilometres northeast of Zanzibar,Pemba is quiet and undeveloped. It has a gentlehilly landscape and has always been seen as amore fertile place than its larger neighbour. Theearly Arab sailors called it 'El Huthera', meaning'The Green'. Travelling across Pemba, you areimmediately struck by the number of rural farmingand fishing villages. At harvest time, great swathesof cloves lie drying in the sun and fill the air withtheir scent. Mangos in piles over six feet high waitby the roadsides to be trucked to the port atMkoani and then shipped over to the mainland.Fields are dotted with women in bright kangasattending to crops while wooden pirogues anddhows glide gently over the turquoise seas.Pemba has few lodges and nearly all of thebeaches are deserted. Offshore, coral islands havewhite sand and nesting turtles at night. The deepPemba Channel is rich with coral reefs and offerssome of the best diving in East Africa.88School girls on the beachA beach suite at Fundu LagoonManta Resort