ACCOMMODATIONINLIMAHotels in Lima are located mainly in two districts:the cosmopolitan Miraflores with its bars,restaurants and pretty parks that extend to thecliffs overlooking the Pacific, and the moreresidential district of San Isidro. These areascontain a variety of charming, locally ownedplaces to stay such as the Antigua or Faraonahotels as well as a range of four and five starproperties. For extended stays in the capital thereare some more characterful options such as theCountry Club in San Isidro, built in the 1930s in acolonial style and decorated with a stylish mixtureof classical and Peruvian artwork. Alternatively,the Miraflores Park Plaza offers sweeping viewsalong the Pacific coastline and is one of the bestaccommodation options in the country.Nazca & the South CoastSouth of Lima, a huge monkey appears etched in one continuous line into the barren landscape.Other complex images include a hummingbird,condor, spider and various geometric shapes.These are the Nazca Lines, one of the world'smost bewildering archaeological sites. Believed todate back to 400 BC, their origin and purpose stillremain a mystery. The lines can be seen as part ofa day trip from Lima, flying from the capital to thedesert town of Ica where you will board a smallaircraft for the overflight. With more time you can explore the regionfurther. Travelling south out of Lima by bus orcar, the Pan American Highway snakes through a landscape of barren desert interspersed withfertile valleys growing grapes for pisco. In additionto taking a flight over the lines you can visit theancient mummies at a local museum in Ica, goquad biking in sand dunes near Huacachinalagoon or head down to the nearby ParacasNature Reserve. Here morning boat trips headalong the coast and past 'La Candelabra' etchedinto the desert sand before arriving at theBallestas Islands, home to hordes of sea lions and a wonderful variety of birdlife.LimaHundreds of years ago Lima was reputed to bethe most beautiful city in all of Spanish America.Even its biggest fans could not say the sametoday, and the city can be something of achallenge. It is, however, brimming with heritageand can be a worthwhile stop for a night or two.The main attractions are those that remain of thecolonial and Republican era, such as the bustlingPlaza de Armas with its grand Presidential Palaceand cathedral where the remains of FranciscoPizarro, who conquered the Inca Empire for theSpanish, are thought to be interred. The city'smuseums are worth exploring and will give you afascinating glimpse of the ancient cultures whoseremnants you will see later on your trip. The Incaand pre-Inca ceramics at Larco Herrera and theamazing collection of weapons and jewellery atthe Gold Museum are particularly impressive. 10Miraflores Park Plaza hotelHummingbird, Nazca LinesPlaza de Armas, Lima

www.audleytravel.com/peru ?01993 838 620 ?Peru11Train JourneysPeru's spectacular rail journeys are inthemselves a major attraction of the country and you will invariably embark on at least one train voyage during your trip asMachu Picchu is only reached by train (unless you trek for four days). A variety ofservices, from carriages with comfortableseating and panoramic windows through tothe luxury Hiram Bingham train with finedining and entertainment, transport visitorsbetween Cuzco and the Sacred Valley of the Incas, along the banks of the UrubambaRiver, to the village of Aguas Calientes below the ruins. One of the country's most impressive trainjourneys is across the altiplano (high plain)between Cuzco and Puno. Dramatic Andeanscenery, lush valleys and vast barrenlandscapes keep passengers occupied for the ten hour journey. This civilised affair also includes a three-course lunch andafternoon tea. For the true train enthusiast, the CentralAndean Railway operates trains betweenLima and the Andean town of Huancayo.This 12-hour journey ascends to over 15,000 feet (the second highest passengerBalconies, LimaLa Raya pass, Puno to Cuzco trainPisco vineyard, near Icarailway in the world), with numerousswitchbacks, and passes through and over a total of 60 tunnels and steel bridges. Whatever your level of interest in trains is,Peru offers visitors some wonderfulalternatives that showcase its dramatic,natural scenery.Train to Machu PicchuACCOMMODATIONAROUNDNAZCAANDTHESOUTHCOASTAccommodation around Ica and Nazca, such asthe Las Dunas Hotel and Hacienda Cantayo, isfairly simple but is ideally located as a base forboth the Nazca Lines and Paracas NatureReserve. Newer, more luxurious hotels such asthe Libertador Luxury Collection, located closerto Paracas are becoming more popular for ourclients. Paracas hotels operate boat trips to thenearby Ballestas Islands and have their ownaircraft for flights over the Nazca Lines. La Candelabra, Paracas Nature ReserveFarming near Nazca