QUINCHOCOUNTRYHOME, NEARPUERTOVARASOverlooking Lake Llanquihue ten kilometres fromPuerto Varas in the opposite direction to CasaMolino, Quincho Country Home is an incrediblywelcoming home from home in the Chilean lakes.The house is beautifully designed and decorated,and with only four rooms, each guest is attendedto with great care and attention to detail.Delicious home cooked food with fresh, localingredients is combined with fine wine.AisénChile's Southern Highway, begun in 1976 underthe determined project management of GeneralPinochet, snakes south from Puerto Monttthrough the country's remote Aisén region downto southern Patagonia. The landscape throughwhich you pass is dramatic, pristine, and enticinglystudded with waterfalls, rivers, forests and lakes.The road's romantic ending is a forced one; at thetiny hamlet of Villa O'Higgins it can go no further,obliged to trail off as the vast Southern Ice Fieldtakes over. For those keen on road trips, we canorganise a hire car and maps (see feature on page 111), or we can arrange a guide if you areheading for a specific attraction, maybe the townsof Cochrane or Coyhaique, the hanging glaciers ofQueulat, or a cruise through the maze of fjords tothe mighty glacier on Lake San Rafael. If you areshort of time, you can fly into the town ofBalmaceda, which allows easy access to theattractions of the region. www.audleytravel.com/chile ?01993 838 640 ?Chile109ACCOMMODATIONINTHEAISÉNREGIONScattered throughout this lush area are a numberof rustic lodges which offer comfortableaccommodation and a great range of outdooractivities, so that you can make the most of themountains, glaciers, lakes and rivers. MallínColorado Ecolodge and Terra Luna are bothsituated on the shores of Lake General Carrera,both offer a warm welcome and a range ofexcursions by foot, horseback, bicycle or boat, plusfishing trips. Close by, the more luxurious HaciendaTres Lagos also offers adventure activities andpampering. All can arrange excursions to theNorthern Patagonian ice field. The PuyuhuapiLodge & Spa is a more remote property onlyaccessible by boat, a journey that provides stunning views of the dramatic fjord scenery.Mapuche boyQuincho Country HomeChiloé IslandFlower sellers, Puerto MonttForest and waterfall, AisénLocal farmer, near Puerto VarasPuerto Varas and the Osorno VolcanoIcebergs from the San Rafael Glacier

but food plentiful and community spirit abounds,with nightly gatherings to enjoy a pisco sour,Chile's traditional drink.SKORPIOSThe vessels Skorpios II and III follow threedifferent routes through the channels and fjordsof Chilean Patagonia on cruises lasting betweenthree and five nights. The itineraries visit thefringes of either the Northern or SouthernPatagonian Ice fields between Puerto Montt andPuerto Natales. The boats have a capacity of upto 130 passengers, with well-furnished, modernen suite cabins on a number of decks, and agood menu of local Chilean cuisine. Dailyexcursions by motor launch take you to explorethe mainland, cruise through the dramaticicebergs, or up to the face of huge glaciers.NOCTILUCAA 20 metre motor yacht which can sail intoplaces that the bigger boats cannot, theNoctiluca offers a unique and intimate sailingexperience with personalised itineraries aroundthe beautiful and remote Aisén region. Noctiluca was constructed on Chiloé Island from a unique Patagonian wood that has beenused for centuries by the local mariners, andsleeps four to eight passengers. It has acomfortable lounge area, spacious outer decksand the food and wine is of the highest quality.A truly exclusive experience.CRUCEROSAUSTRALISFinally, to the very tip of the continent. TheBeagle Channel and Cape Horn (weatherpermitting!) are two of the highlights of the'Cruceros Australis' cruises that sail the watersbetween Punta Arenas in Chile and Ushuaia, on Tierra del Fuego in Argentina, on three andfour night voyages. There are daily excursions to see glaciers, elephant seal and penguincolonies, plus lectures from the knowledgeableguides, as well as evening entertainment.Comfortable cabins and plentiful food and drink mean these trips are a fabulous way toexperience some of the remotest parts of thecontinent in a little bit of comfort. The cruisesoperate from September to April, withoccasional sailings in the winter months.Chile's unique ribbon-like shape gives it over4,300 kilometres of coastline stretching downthe west coast of South America. The bottomthird of this coastline is a fragmented landscape,as if this part of Chile was once dropped on thefloor and it shattered into a thousand pieces.This means that there are many fjords, islets,archipelagos and peninsulas to explore, andthere is no better (indeed there is no other)way to explore this fascinating territory than bytaking to the water. This can be done either as a day trip, on a longer journey as a means ofgetting from place to place, or on a relaxingcruise as a key part of your Chile trip.NAVIMAGNavimag operate passenger ferries (carryingbetween 100 and 250 people) between PuertoMontt and Puerto Natales, a journey that isimpossible to complete by road on the mainlanddue to the obstacle of the Southern PatagoniaIce Field. They also operate various other routesin the area which are ideal for travellers, localsand cargo alike. Joining the ferry offers you theunique chance to see the fjords and coastline of southern Chile go by at a leisurely pace,allowing you plenty of time to spot dolphins and whales along the way, as you wind yourway through narrow channels and along the side of spectacular glaciers. The atmosphericjourney takes three nights and leaves you at thegateway of Torres del Paine. Cabins are basicChile by water110Skorpios IINoctiluca