Audley in the Falkland IslandsOur in-depth first hand knowledge of theislands, the accommodation, the excursions,the wildlife-watching opportunities and ourfriendships with some of the locals meansthat we will ensure you get the most out ofyour visit by creating a trip tailored just foryou. Getting there is an adventure in itself,and there are three main ways to reach theislands, which are situated one hour's flightoff mainland South America in the SouthAtlantic ocean. We use either the scheduledweekly LAN service from Santiago, Chile viaPunta Arenas (ideal if you are already on atrip to Chile, or indeed anywhere in SouthAmerica), or you can travel on the RAFservice from Brize Norton in Oxfordshire via Ascension Island. In either case you land at the military base of Mount Pleasantfrom where you will start your tour. Thealternative way to visit the islands is as partof an Antarctica cruise that stops off here,please see pages 120-122.AccommodationAccommodation, apart from in the capitalStanley, is in family lodges or self-cateringcottages within the settlement. Standardsvary and en suite facilities are not alwaysavailable. Dining and socialising with yourfellow travellers and hosts provides a morepersonal and authentic local experience. Your hosts will also act as your guides to the local sights. Not all of the islands arecurrently open to visitors, and there are alsosome other lodges scattered throughout East and West Falkland that are notmentioned here due to space restrictions.Find out more For a suggested itinerary and practicalinformation about travel in the FalklandIslands, please see page 119.www.audleytravel.comInteractive maps and features, further suggested itineraries,accommodation, climate informationand articles written by our specialists.Discuss your plans with our FalklandIslands specialists 01993 838 644?Volunteer PointA bumpy three hour journey by 4x4 across rolling moors brings you to Volunteer Point,home to the world's largest accessible colony ofking penguins. En route you'll pass through a starkbut beautiful landscape of rolling moors dottedwith glacial-scarred rock. Once at Volunteers you enter a world where the white sandy beach,rolling hills, lagoon and the pebble shore belongto the penguins. As a (largely ignored) visitor, it is a privilege to experience one of nature's most endearing and awe-inspiring scenes. Watch these fascinating, sociable creatures goabout their daily life of breeding, preening,protecting and feeding their young. Crouch onthe grass and observe the comical sight of whatappear to be balls of brown fluff with feet,padding about. These are the young king penguinsin adolescence, before they moult their soft downto reveal their trademark svelte black and whitecoats with distinctive amber neck markings.West PointAs a side trip by boat from Carcass Island you canvisit this tiny craggy island for a day. It is home toa great rockhopper penguin colony but also, andthe main reason for going, is to see a massiveblack-browed albatross colony. Here you can sitand watch these huge and beautiful birdsreturning from the sea to feed their chicks.StanleyThe capital of the Falklands, with a population of around 2,000, is a charming place with just afew streets of colourful houses, a smattering ofred phone boxes, a few lively pubs and aselection of the latest 4x4s, all set on a gentleslope beside Stanley Harbour. The compact towncan be easily appreciated simply by wandering thestreets on foot. From the 1982 Memorial walkalong the harbour front, passing the rusting hulksof ships that never made it round treacherousCape Horn, explore the whimsical StanleyMuseum, visit the world's most southerlycathedral and stand beneath Whale Bone Arch,made in 1933 from the jawbones of two bluewhales to celebrate the centenary of continuousBritish administration. Pass Jubilee Villas (built tocommemorate Queen Victoria's DiamondJubilee), drop into the informative Visitor Centre,then explore Cartmell Cottage, one of the earliestresidential buildings in Stanley, built in 1849 usinga kit sent from Britain. Finally, stop off in one ofStanley's distinctly English pubs to chat to somelocals over a beer. For accommodation in Stanleywe recommend either the wonderfully friendlyLafone House or Malvina House, the only realhotels on the islands.Carcass IslandWhen the sun is shining, this is arguably the mostbeautiful of the islands, with rolling green hillscontrasting with vibrant yellow gorse, white sandbeaches and the pale blue sea. Wildlife spottingopportunities are even more plentiful thanks to a lack of predatory rodents or cats, and you canspot gentoo and Magellanic penguin breedingcolonies within a few hours scenic but windy walkfrom the settlement. Sometimes the penguinstreat you to a show on your doorstep, when theyobligingly nest in the settlement itself. Othersighted inhabitants include kelp, upland and ruddygeese, Patagonian crested duck, flightless steamerduck, Falkland thrush, caracara, and pied, blackand Magellanic oystercatchers. On the larger sideof life you will also find colonies of elephant seals.Falkland Islands117Cormorants, Pebble IslandElephant seals, Carcass Island

118Pebble IslandA lovely place for hiking and wildlife spotting inthe day, and relaxing and enjoying the cosy lodgein the evening, Pebble Island is home to a plentifuland diverse array of penguin colonies. This is agreat place to spend hours immersed in thewonderful noisy interaction of penguin societywhere it has been known for some lucky visitorsto see six different species of penguin in a singleday. Rest on a rock to watch the sociablerockhoppers leave their nests, gather in littlegroups, and set off in their comical gait on aperilous trip down the cliffs to the sea. Pebble isalso home to some of the island's best wetlandsgiving huge variety to the birdlife viewing on offer here. On a different note, Pebble was thesite of an assault made by the SAS during the1982 conflict and is home to the memorial toHMS Coventry.Sea Lion IslandSea Lion Island boasts the most hotel-likeaccommodation outside of the capital, Sea LionLodge. Its ideal location overlooking a gentoopenguin colony makes a pre-breakfast amblethrough the tussock grass to the sea shore adelightful way to start the day. Here you can sitquietly with the sea lions and elephant seals whoare lazing about on the sandy beach, but sinceorcas have been known to arrive at the shore tosnatch their breakfast, we recommend avoiding a morning dip in the sea.Port HowardOnce the largest settlement outside Stanley andstill a working farm, Port Howard, on WestFalkland, is a fascinating introduction to thefarming history of the islands. Your flight in willbring you over the high ridge that circles the farmand you will soon be tucking into the hearty'smoko' (tea and cake break) that is typical of theFalklands. You may be here at the right time tosee some of the sheep shearing gangs hard atwork, this is also one of the best fly fishingdestinations in the world and a trip out with agillie is a rewarding experience for any fisherman.Saunders IslandHome to king, rockhopper and Magellanicpenguins, a large colony of black-browed albatrossand many other varieties of sea bird, SaundersIsland is a wildlife lover's paradise. Sea lions anddolphins often frolic in the harbour shallows andthe owners of the island, will happily guide you tosee the best of the island's other wildlife. Werecommend nature photography enthusiasts staya few nights at the Neck, an isolated hide wherethe natural world takes centre stage. Otherwisethere is a simple lodge at the Rookery, close to arockhopper penguin colony and just a short walkfrom a freshwater 'shower' used by these comical birds.Black-browed albatross, Saunders IslandPebble IslandPebble Island