ACCOMMODATIONINQUITOQuito can roughly be divided into two areas inwhich most accommodation is based. The newtown or 'La Mariscal' has undergone significantregeneration in recent years and now has athriving cafe, bar and restaurant scene. Here youwill find a number of modern four and five starhotels with excellent facilities and convenientaccess to the international airport. The area isalso seeing an increase in smaller properties suchas the Casa Aliso and Anahi boutique hotels, idealfor those seeking something with a little characterbut close to the vibrant social scene.The old town is the most common place to stay for those wanting to explore the UNESCOcentre. Here charming B&B hotels such as theRelicario del Carmen and Villa Colonna offerthoughtfully decorated rooms around smallcourtyards and a very personalised service, all just footsteps from the main square. Close by,and with a few more facilities including a goodrestaurant serving Spanish and local specialities, is the ever popular Patio Andaluz. For the jewel in the crown of luxury hotels, the Plaza Grande is located on the corner of the main square andhas Victorian touches with a classical feel. There is an impressive grand dining room, elegant cafe,huge wine cellar and a cognac, cigar andchampagne bar.Around QuitoNorth of Quito is the geographic feature thatgives the country its name, the equator. There are a number of locations each marked by amonument and ubiquitous painted line on theground offering you the opportunity to stand with 'one foot in each hemisphere'.Around one hour east of the capital is Ecuador'sfourth highest peak, Antisana. The attachedecological reserve enables visitors to get up closeto rocky peaks which give way to a vast sweep ofAndean vegetation, home to beautiful paramoflowers and rich Andean birdlife. Close by is thetown of Papallacta, renowned for its thermalsprings and their reputed curative powers.QuitoSet in an Andean valley with the verdantPichincha volcano rising to the west, Quito is the capital of Ecuador. From the scenic hill of ElPanecillo, the Virgin of Quito spreads her silverwings and watches over the fine colonial buildingsof the old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.Its chaotic narrow streets, lined with colonialchurches, monasteries and mansions, radiateoutwards from attractive plazas. Recently sprucedup, this part of the city tempts the visitor with itsabundance of history at every turn and a walkingtour here is a must. The city's newer area has lessof historic interest but this is where you will findthe majority of the shops, cafes and restaurants.34Quito at nightVirgin of Quito, El PanecilloEl Sagrario church, Quito

Otavalo and the NorthA couple of hours north of Quito the small townof Otavalo, nestling in amongst the surroundinghills and mountains, is famous for its bustlingindigenous market, which dates back to pre-Incatimes. One of the most colourful and vibrantmarkets in South America, the stalls are spreadover three main squares and spill over into theadjacent streets. The Otavaleños host the marketin their distinctive traditional dress - the mensport calf-length white trousers, rope sandals andponchos and wear their hair in ponytails; thewomen wear delicately embroidered blouses anddark skirts, long hair in swinging braids, their wrists adorned by red beads. Barter for one ofthe many high-quality crafts and textiles on offer,or just soak up the atmosphere with a strollaround the market. The surrounding villages also retain quirkytraditions such as Calderón, where bakeries turnout intriguing bread dough figurines in manyshapes and sizes. Nearby San Antonio de Ibarra is famous for its woodcarvings and the town ofCotacachi is entirely dedicated to selling fineleather products. Alternatively visit local houses in Peguche where textiles are woven on old-fashioned shuttle looms.www.audleytravel.com/ecuador ?01993 838 655 ?Ecuador & the Galapagos35Hacienda Cusin, near OtavaloOtavaleños trading corn at the marketAround Otavalo you will find the widestchoice of haciendas in Ecuador. Dating backto the 17th century, many of the estatessurvived the liberation of the country fromthe Spanish. Many important figures, such asthe liberator General Simón Bolívar, havebeen significant guests at these properties.Today they have been lovingly restored andhouse an abundance of antiquities, roaringfireplaces, quaint chapels and prettycourtyards teeming with hummingbirds.Closest to the town of Otavalo are thehaciendas of Cusin and Pinsaqui. Long termAudley favourites, they are perfectly locatedfor exploring the villages and markets aroundOtavalo whilst also offering great outdooractivities such as walks around stunning craterlakes and horse riding. More remote is thebeautiful working farm of Hacienda Zuleta.Opened to guests around ten years ago, thehacienda has just 15 rooms offering rusticluxury. Activities are primarily undertakenwithin the grounds and include over 50kilometres of self-guided Andean trails andhorse riding on some of the finest horses inEcuador. There is also a condor rehabilitationcentre, fishing pond and pre-Inca pyramidslocated within the property boundaries.Further north is the converted hacienda ofPantaví. Situated in the heart of the Chotavalley, home to the Afro-Ecuadoriancommunities, the beautiful gardens, smallpool and charming hosts make this abeautiful base to explore this region.Activities in this secluded corner of thecountry include walking amongst farmingplantations, mountain biking, soaking inthermal springs and discovering the uniqueculture of the Chotas.Haciendas of Northern EcuadorHacienda ZuletaImbabura volcano near OtavaloEquator line and monument, near QuitoOtavalo market